VH 133072

[Tad Tadlock]

Well,

The VA sent me over to Walla Walla, WA. Monday to have a couple of exams. One of the examiners said that she needed some more tests and sent me to Kennewick, WA. to have those done today.

When all of that was done, my wife said that she would like to eat lunch before we headed back to Boise. I told her to pick somewhere. She looked up a little 5 star restaurant downtown. We headed over there. After eating, it was a good place, she wanted to go look in a couple of antique stores that were on the same block. I told her that I would be in the gun store that just happened to be a couple of doors down from the restaurant that she picked.

There was a Parker in there. I looked it over really well before I even looked at the price tag.

Well, now I have three Parkers.

[Tad Tadlock]

As you can see, the stock has been repaired at some point.

[Tad Tadlock]

[Tad Tadlock]

She is not in the Identification and Serialization book. She should have been in Order Book #47 which the I & S book says is missing. According to the website, she was built in 1905 and there are some factory records for this gun. I'll probably have to get a letter on this one, too. She's been boogered up a little over the last hundred years or so.

The barrels are serial numbered to the gun, but they have been cut. They are a little over 27". The bores are in excellent shape with no pitting. The barrels are also stuck on the gun. I can see why. The cocking crank will not drop down and release the cocking link. There is very little tension on the unhooking pin when I try to depress it. Much lighter than on my other two Parkers.

As I was researching to see the best way to work on this, I found a thread, Barrels won't unhook, where Mr. Dudley says that he wrote an article last year in the Parker Pages that addresses this issue. That was before I became a member and I do not have access to the article.

I have soaked it down and am letting it sit for now.

Is there anyway that I could get a copy of Mr. Dudley's article? Any help would be appreciated.

[Dean Romig]

You can contact James Hall to send you a copy of any past issues you are missing. I'm not certain of the price but it is probably less than $10, postage included.

James Hall can be reached on this forum by PM.





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[Tad Tadlock]

Thank you, sir.

[charlie cleveland]

wish my va trips was as good as yours a good find for sure....looks like a new hunting gun...charlie

[J. A. EARLY]

You've tried pulling both triggers on empty shells or snap caps and then trying to remove the barrels, correct?

[Tad Tadlock]

Originally Posted by Jerry Harlow

You've tried pulling both triggers on empty shells or snap caps and then trying to remove the barrels, correct?

Yes, sir.

[J. A. EARLY]

You can get the barrels off without taking the floor plate off on most 12 gauge guns. From the looks of the hinge pin screw, someone thought it worked like a single barrel and butchered that up trying to remove it, which would have gotten them no where.

It is a two man job, but have someone hold the action open as far as it will go, forend removed, farther than it normally does upon opening, and with the right size bit remove the screw that holds the barrel hook. But don't lose the parts that come out of the barrels when the hook is removed.

It does take two people to keep from screwing up and to get full access to the screw head so it clears the frame. Hard to do by yourself because you need three hands. Should work. It does for me.