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Unread 03-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #21
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wayne goerres
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I have the stock off. There are no ser. no. on it. Brian what would you use to burnish it with. I think I will reoil the but stock and the forearm to match. There are a few minor repairs to make. I will not be trying to hone all the pitting out of the barrels only enough to make it clean a little easyer. I have nothing to measure the barrel wall thickness. Barrels only weigh 3lbs 1 oz. So they arnt vert thick anyway.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #22
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I agree with Brian about the restock. The checkering pattern on both the stock and forend does not conform to Parker Bros. standards for the grade.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 07:37 AM   #23
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One of the experts looked at a set of badly pitted barrels for me and advised they were probably safe, but to not hone them as that would remove metal. Some others say to polish the bores out with a copper brush and drill and that the pitting probably looks worse than it really is. Wall thickness is the key, I am told. I am passing what I have heard along for what it is worth.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #24
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Yes, the wall thickness is most important. As long as the wall thickness is fine, pitting is not so much an issue. Unless the pitting is so bad that it creates a thin spot. Usually pitting is not picked up by wall thickness gauges. It has to be very bad to do that.
Pitting just means you have to clean them more often.
If there is a lot of wall thickness, you could hone some to try and smooth things out a bit. But I would not do that unless you are at .040 to .050 at the thinnest spots.

To burnish just use anything that is metal and smooth. The round metal shaft of a screwdriver that uses interchangeable bits works very well. Just rub with pressure and the points will start to flatten out.

Burnishing Allows you to maintain a glossy surface to the tops of the diamonds. Whereas sanding will loose that.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 09:52 AM   #25
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I see it is a no. 1 frame, in which case I would definitely get the wall thickness checked. The barrels mentioned in my previous post were no. 3. The larger the frame size, the thicker the barrels and the more pitting they can stand before getting too thin. If too thin, you may consider some Briley tubes if you want to safely shoot it.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 11:31 AM   #26
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Yes, there is a drastic difference in thicknesses between 1 and 2 frame guns in 12g. Or for any guage in that matter. Usually the thicknesses in the front half of the tubes will be comparable. But it is the back half where there is quite a change. A smaller frame size will ramp up more gradually, and a larger will get a lot thicker much quicker as you move towards the breech.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 12:57 PM   #27
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Most of the pitting is probable not over a few thousands deep But pitted consistantly down both bores. Looks like 5 miles of bad road.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 09:07 AM   #28
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Wayne, possibly your pictures are too large which is why you are not allowed to load more. Try right clicking on your picture and see if a list doesn't come up listing re-size. If so then you can click on re-size to make the picture smaller. Most of the time you can click on, select all, to re-size them all at the same time.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 09:37 AM   #29
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Thanks Dennis I will try that.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 09:26 PM   #30
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Great find!
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