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damascus restoration
Unread 07-08-2018, 05:57 PM   #1
Mike Hoecherl
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Default damascus restoration

I have a G grade with extractors that I am restoring. It came with two sets of barrels original shit we’re Damascus the second set sleeved with steel. I rust blued the steel set and they came out beautiful. I’m trying to restore the Damascus set per Dr. Gaddy’s recipe and having a bugger of a time. My first attempt was with Pilkington’s rush blue and the barrels blackened nicely with the first coat of rust bluing and boiling. When dipped in the ferric chloride 15% solution for 15 seconds and then immediately to a water bath and Carded with 0000 steel wool had a extremely difficult time getting the blue off so dip again for another 10 seconds still had a hard time getting a blue off so dip the third time and all blue came off. my second attempt was with Mark lee’s express blue number one and after boiling carding and dipping had the same poor outcome
Does anybody have any tricks of the trade to help me out diluting the Russ blue solution they’ve been longer get being shorter etc. I did strike and polish the barrels to A mirror like finish on my barrels to smoke my last polishing list with 400 grit sandpaper when degreased with acetone hey beautiful pattern was evident Any thoughts ideas comments on what I might be doing right and/or wrong would be appreciated I’m in Houston Texas so the humidity for the rusting solution and humidity is not a problem I’m rustin for 15 to 30 minutes As I did for my steel barrels and as noted above they came out beautiful I am on a limited budget due to a fixed income so sending them to a gunsmith is not an option price wise Again any words of wisdom comments of dues and don’ts would be greatly appreciated
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Unread 07-09-2018, 09:39 AM   #2
Tom Flanigan
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I'm not exactly sure of what you are doing, but I have a couple of comments nevertheless. I wouldn't dilute the rusting solution. There is really no need to. I use Laurel Mountain but Pilkingtons is fine. I wouldn't use Mark Lee's express blue. Stick to Pilkingtons or Laurel Mountain. Dilution of the ferric chloride at 15% is not locked in stone. I use a stronger etch. You might have to experiment to get it right. But I would recommend a stronger etch or more etching time in the solution.

Also, polishing at 400 grit is not recommended for Parker grades under CHE. Parker did not polish the lower grades this fine. I polish to 220 grit on Trojans and 320 on VH through DH.

Feel free to send me a PM if you have more questions as you work the process.
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