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Unread 12-07-2023, 11:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Beck View Post
Is that a sheared screw in the middle or a pin used to assemble it? did it get dropped and land on the lug?

Not dropped on the lug.
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Unread 12-07-2023, 11:59 AM   #12
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Bill Murphy. He was pheasant hunting and shooting 1-3/8 oz. 1300 fps loads out od it. It has factory 3” chambers.

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Unread 12-07-2023, 12:17 PM   #13
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Put a propane torch on the material that is left on the barrel lug for a few minutes and see if it melts. That will tell you if it is soft solder or brazing or not.

One time I tried to heat up the lug of an old junk set of original barrels to see if I could get the brazing to separate with mapp gas. No go. And I put a lot of heat into it. So that is why I am amazed that this would have let go if they are in fact brazed.
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Unread 12-07-2023, 01:54 PM   #14
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I'm curious what the barrels would have sounded like if one had done a ring test where you hold the barrels by the lug and tap on the other end of the barrels with a pencil to see what the ring sounded like. I'm thinking it would have sounded really flat. I do this every time I think of it to hopefully catch an early separation of the barrels but would never imagined a lug coming off
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Unread 12-07-2023, 02:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Hall View Post
I'm curious what the barrels would have sounded like if one had done a ring test where you hold the barrels by the lug and tap on the other end of the barrels with a pencil to see what the ring sounded like. I'm thinking it would have sounded really flat. I do this every time I think of it to hopefully catch an early separation of the barrels but would never imagined a lug coming off
I’m a barrel ringer. I cut wooden matchsticks to jam the extractors. These barrels rang just fine when I tested it at purchase a couple of years ago. I believe the barrel ringing gives false positives and false negatives. I do it anyway. I have found solder gaps between the rib and barrel on some guns using the test.
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Unread 12-07-2023, 10:57 PM   #16
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I would do a lot of research before I spent the price of replacement barrels for the gun. There are silver solders and silver brazing rods available for almost any melting temperature needed. Silver solders are available now with melting temperatures at almost any level. HiForce 44 from Brownells melts at I believe 440 degrees and has a strength in service of 28000 psi. The stress on that joint would be almost purely shear stress and their is a lot of area. Fully soldered, there is probably 4 square inches of bonding surface and should be laughably able to withstand the 20-25 ft-lbsf from the recoil of a 12 gauge. I bought a pre-1900 Darne in which the barrel lug that holds the barrel under recoil (no crossbolt and inline action)was loose and fell out when the barrel was removed. I cleaned the area and the lug, stuck in two strips of HiForce tape fluxed on both sides, clamped the joint and soldered it in a few seconds with the smallest acytlene tip I have. The old Darnes have the advantage of having no lower rib, so I simply rolled up an old towel soaked in water and laid the barrels top down on the towel with a weight to hold it down tightly. No problem at all with the top rib joint and an extemely strong joint that has worked fine.

In the case of a bottom and top rib, and taking the safe approach, I would suspend the barrel top down in a water bath until the entire top rib is immersed and then spread heat past over the rear portion of the lower rib and on the sides of the barrel and back of the breech. The soldering part would be quick and simple. The part should align easily with the pin to locate it. Certainly worth a try and a cheap experiment.

As mentioned on the DoubleGun forum, modern adhesives may be worth a try and even simpler. Modern rimfire target rifles in most of the really expensive European bolt guns are generally rebarreled when needed with glued in barrels whether they were originally glued, pressed in, or clamped. Hardly any use threaded shanks anymore, even as new. I have done this when rebarreling Anschutz, Sako and Ruger 10/22's for competition at the national level. The reason is not for convenience but to relieve stress on the throat of the chamber (the throat of rimfire chambers is always inside the action ring and any mechanical stress affects the throat). Never had a problem wih any of these heavy cantilever barrels.
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Unread 12-08-2023, 07:45 AM   #17
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I would start with calling Aaron Little in Texas.
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Unread 12-08-2023, 08:23 AM   #18
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Mike , sent you a PM .
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Unread 12-08-2023, 12:25 PM   #19
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Briley may be an option as well.
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Unread 12-08-2023, 01:09 PM   #20
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Or Dan Cullity in Sandwich, mass.
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