loose rib assist

[B. Dudley]

Originally Posted by bob kuczynski

is there a certain temp that wont ruin the solder or gold?

No temp will effect true gold. What grade is the gun that is has gold on it?

Solder joints can be effected in temps as low as 300-400 degrees.
Rust bluing gets no hotter than the water the barrels are boiled in, so the solder joints are perfectly safe.

[Bob Kuczynski]

see my avatar. that's it.

[Dean Romig]

If you decide (against advice) that you still want to re-blue the barrels please do not attempt to do it yourself.

There is Abe Chaber in CT who is German trained in correct methods of all gunsmithing procedures.

There is also Dan Cullity in East Sandwich, MA. You can't find better gunsmiths than these two gentlemen.





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[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by bob kuczynski

see my avatar. that's it.

Is that a Pachmayr gun? I ask only because of all the gold inlays.





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[Bob Kuczynski]

yes...its a pach. I bought it from a pca member in Fairfax va back in the early 90's. he was set up at the Richmond fairgrounds. I couldn't resist it.

good news, id never try it myself.

[Bob Kuczynski]

any idea what town abe is in? I frequent sw ct when I visit home regularly.

[Dean Romig]

I believe he's in Danbury.





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[Bob Kuczynski]

thatll work. thanks.

[Pawel Janusz]

Something rolling under your rib don't mean loose rib, mostly loose ball of solder of broken end of treaded old bead stud. Here is how to check: put your barrels on desk at medium or dark light room, using strong flashlight inspect every inch of rib by pressing it and watching for separation or rib movement, if that look ok, then gently bump barrels with rubber millet and lesson to a sound, is the sound is short and dead means no parts are loose, is its ringing or long then you may have separation somewhere there, but it don't necessarily is a concern. Except if barrels ware refinished in hot blue bath, that means blueish salts are trapped between ribs and barrels and slowly are eating away solder joint. But let's say that is not a case then here is what you do with eyeing rolling part of solder: the concept is to get is glued inside, hole can be drilled in bottom rib right by the forearm lug, or in solder plug at barrel face, the barrels can be skated so the particle move towards the area and glueing fluid can be injected to glue part in, wipe off excess if and showing from under the rib. Let it dry and if success is achieved them the hole in front of barrel can be plugged back with melted solder and made like it never happened.

[Bob Kuczynski]

good insight. thanks.
the bbls thunk when hit.
since we are on ribs, i have a m12 win solid rib that has in some places seperated from the bbl. its original blue, not reblued and im stuck deciding how to fix it. as many know, the bbl is attached to a bbl extension, so if it was resoldered it would most likely have to be reblued. but proper is....bbl blued seperate from the extension. the extension must match the receiver, not the bbl. so, is there any way to reglue or lets just say...attach the rib again w/o reblueing?
its a 1940 skeet 16ga and i hate to reblue it. granted, value will be effected if repaired, but its already ruined because it seperated. i just dont want to make it any worse.