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Old 09-11-2017, 01:51 PM   #11
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Paul Harm
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Larry, go here and buy the Remington hulls https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!c=13
part # RMUPH10U
BP square loads are great, but the plastic shells don't last but a couple of reloads before they get pin hole burns through the plastic just above the brass. If I were shooting a lot of BP I'd buy the brass shells. Those will last forever even though they cost about $7.50 each. I keep reediting my reply. I got thinking [ dangerous ] - the Rem's cost about .45 each - 3 reloads of BP would be 4 shots total. Four shells at four shots each would be about the same price. I guess one would have to determine just how much BP shells he would shoot before buying the brass shells. Also, you don't want to use plastic wads with BP weather it's in a brass shell or plastic. You may have already knew that if you've been shooting smoke.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:42 PM   #12
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4 1/2 drams and 1 1/4oz of shot with the old guns that had 3" or so of drop would most certainly jar any loose fillings out of your mouth. I just shoot clay birds, but 21grs of GD and 1 1/16oz of shot is about all I like. The 19 of RD and 1oz of shot is also nice.
I've been loading 4 1/2 drams of Pyrodex RS in full length short brass cases with 1 1/4 Oz of lead or bismuth. Ducks and geese can't survive it. The other day I was at a live pigeon shoot shooting the same loads at practice pigeons. A friend had a chronograph so I ran a load through it. 1325 fps! Probably more than I need so I'm going to drop the load to 3 3/4 drams, toss in some more shot and see what happens. The recoil never bothers me because the gun is a #6 frame and weighs 14 pounds.
I think I got the 4 1/2 dram load off an old Parker loading chart. That says a lot about how shooting was in the old days.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:24 AM   #13
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I like 23 grs of Green Dot & 1 1/14 oz of # 6 for crows. Cut down Federal hull Remington SP 10 wad with a 16 G fiber wad in the shot cup. About 1150 FPS with mild recoil. Victor posted tested data on this load few weeks ago that’s worth a look. I think it would be a good Pheasant or Squirrel load too.

2nd Pauls comment on plastic and Black Powder, not a good mix hull or wad. I load BP 12 G with Paper Hulls and stacked fiber wads & good results. If I wanted to load BP 10s would look for paper hulls, nearly impossible, or use readily available Brass with fiber wads.

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Old 11-08-2017, 10:19 AM   #14
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Black powder loads can be put up in any of the 3 available hulls. Do it all the time. When your hulls are starting to look a bit used up, one last hurrah with black is a good way to dispose of them. Plastic build up or burn through not a problem but use only card and fiber wad column. A plastic shot cup or wad will melt and leave material in the barrels. Roll or 6 point crimp and use a overshot card if the hull mouths are a bit ragged to secure the shot. One time load and shoot and toss into the barrel. I generally use 4 dram 1&1/4 or 4&1/4 dram 1&1/8. Impressive and break the clays decisively. Good show for the crowd as the concussion, smoke and fire from the load reminds one of a battleship firing a gun. Great fun and clean up by hot soap and water and dry and oil. I get 8-10 smokeless reloads on my hulls and then a final round up. I do prefer and use paper hulls in 12 and 16 ga. when I can find them but plastic hulls work fine for black powder.
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Old 11-08-2017, 12:08 PM   #15
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Yes black powder is a crowd pleaser and Black powder smokes better than Pyrodex.
I have a crate of RST hulls I want to reload in smokeless. I think I'll use red dot because I have a lot of it. I just need to come up with a wad. Instead of crimping I might just glue a topwad on them. I'll load BP in them when they're almost done as my full length cnc machined brass cases won't fit in my hammergun anymore and I don't know how those can be resized. Fortunately @$9.00 a pop they still fit in my hammerless gun. I really expected them to go forever.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:20 PM   #16
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I have 20 RMC 32/40 cases used for breech seating in my Schuetzen Rifle. Been using them since 1996 when the rifle was built. One case will go about 100 loads with very light loads, one Offhand match, then the breech block gets hard to close. Gets stiff I switch off to the next case. After working through all 20 tried to size them like a normal drawn case. It’s difficult turned brass does not size like drawn.

I chuck them in my lathe take about .002 or less off and they chamber fine. My guess is 12 G turned case being larger diameter would be more difficult to size. Don’t see why you could not do the same, turn just a bit off. They are a lot thicker and stronger than paper or plastic shells.

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Old 11-08-2017, 03:58 PM   #17
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You may have to anneal them.
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:33 PM   #18
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Paul aneal did not help my 32/40 cases most of the expansion is at the base were the metal is solid. Of course Shotshell may be different. Concencus among Single Shot rifle shooters turned RMC cases don’t perform like regular brass cases. If I was buying 10 G Brass hulls I would look for drawn brass. While turning got them to chamber I pretty much gave up on the RMCs in rifles. RMC at its best something that’s impossible to find elsewhere.

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Old 11-08-2017, 07:47 PM   #19
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I have 20 RMC 32/40 cases used for breech seating in my Schuetzen Rifle. Been using them since 1996 when the rifle was built. One case will go about 100 loads with very light loads, one Offhand match, then the breech block gets hard to close. Gets stiff I switch off to the next case. After working through all 20 tried to size them like a normal drawn case. Itís difficult turned brass does not size like drawn.

I chuck them in my lathe take about .002 or less off and they chamber fine. My guess is 12 G turned case being larger diameter would be more difficult to size. Donít see why you could not do the same, turn just a bit off. They are a lot thicker and stronger than paper or plastic shells.

William
That's a great idea because at the base right at the rim is where the extrusion is.You can barely feel it running your finger over it.
Even if there was a full length sizer for full length 10 ga cases it may not get that far. Do you find taking them down like that weakens the case?
I think it's interesting that there is that much difference between a 1901 and a 1903 chamber, both the same frame sizes.
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Old 11-09-2017, 07:07 AM   #20
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I don’t think reducing .002 or less in front of the rim makes any difference to the cases strength,but thinking and knowing sure are not the same.

I have to do the same when loading for a other single shot chambered in .25 Kraig, Modern brass does not need it old .30 US Government brass does. When I say about .oo2 what I really mean is cut and try until it fits. Very little metal comes off, as a frame of reference aluminum soda can is about .006 3 times the thickness I remove. Problem is you need the gun beside the lathe to make the fit. I would not recomend reducing the thickness in the cases hollow body.

Two guns same maker two chamber fits is very common. You don’t notice it in shotguns due to larger tolerance Rifles with tighter fits its obvious. Chamber reamers wear, different metals cut different, way the operator runs the tool etc.

If you can find a good lathe operator and have your hammer and Hammerless barrels to check as he goes it’s a easy job to fit those turned cases. To be clear fit the cases don’t mess with the barrel chambers. People often try to make rifle chambers match with poor results.

On sizing it’s possable to make new or modify factory sizers that go all the way down but sizing solid brass near the cartridge rim is almost impossible. They work on the hollow sections don't do much to solid. My short 10s size well in a Ponsess Warren die, modern cases folded head all the way to the rim,no solid sections

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