Opinions on Ithaca NID gr2 16ga.

[Joe from MO]

So, for a long time now I have been looking for an Ithaca g2 or 3 16ga with IC/M chokes and 26" barrels. Back in December, one was posted on GB and it was exactly what I was looking for, although pics were sorta of blurry. I talked to the guy, he said gun was in very good shape, but not much more. I threw out a bid I would be very happy with, and actually got the gun for a lot less than my max bid. So figured it was worth a shot, full well knowing the gun might have an issue or two, and I might have to have some work done.

Anyway, after my check getting stalled in Chicago for three weeks, finally picked it up yesterday. First off, very happy with the purchase. It is configured exactly like I wanted pretty much. 26" Barrels, IC/M, double ivory beads, and a 14.25" LOP. Barrels have some bluing loss from carry, bores are mirror bright, barrels ring, tight on face, etc.

Here are some pics.

[Joe from MO]

Couple more.

[Joe from MO]

Now here comes the bad... I don't think it's all that bad, but something I will likely want to address.

For some reason, someone decided to adjust the trigger guard, "scrunching" it forward for lack of better term, and drilling a hole, and shooting a new screw into it.

Was wondering what you would do with this. My thought, have gunsmith tig weld shut the new hole... maybe re-engrave the "0" and bend it back to shape it should be. As you can see in pics, rear trigger is barely off back of guard.

One other thing, the top lever, it has a fishtail sort of bend to it, but would otherwise be LOC I believe. Not sure if the owner did this, or that was an option you could get on an NID G2. Gun is a 1938 gun with 2 3/4" chambers.

[Joe from MO]

One other question, the recoil pad is coming apart where the black spacer meets the red rubber. I can either replace with repro from Galazan's, or reglue the original. If I go with the former, what size does the 16ga require, looks like the Large to me, on the latter, what sort of glue would you use to re-glue the original pad?

[B. Dudley]

The wood has been heavily re-“varnished” at one time.
The method of repair for yhe guard that you mentioned is the way to go. Really yhe inly way short of leaving it.
The top lever is likely just bent. They are kind of thin in the middle. Maybe the gun was dropped when it was open at one time.
Shoe glue would be finenfor the pad.

[Drew Hause]

There is also a slight gap at the head of the stock on the left side raising the possibility of a crack down the middle. Please let us know what you find.
Brian might comment of the blueing technique used on the action.

[Joe from MO]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

The wood has been heavily re-“varnished” at one time.
The method of repair for yhe guard that you mentioned is the way to go. Really yhe inly way short of leaving it.
The top lever is likely just bent. They are kind of thin in the middle. Maybe the gun was dropped when it was open at one time.
Shoe glue would be finenfor the pad.

Ya, I noticed that right away... And debating about what if anything I am going to do about it.

The guns feels like maybe a previous owner had big hands, big fingers maybe? Not sure why else you would adjust the trigger guard in such a way.

Ok, that makes sense on bent lever, honestly it sort of works fine the way it is, much like a fish tail lever... I am not going to worry about that.

Is that shoe glue, like a hot glue, or is there something out there that's just in a tube?

I have some timberluxe.... I have thought of stripping and refinishing the wood with that, I believe stock removal isn't too hard on an NID. Just remove the Trigger guard, the tang screws, and two trigger plate screws making sure not to lose the spring.... It's shiny like a new penny with that varnish....

[Joe from MO]

Originally Posted by Drew Hause

There is also a slight gap at the head of the stock on the left side raising the possibility of a crack down the middle. Please let us know what you find.
Brian might comment of the blueing technique used on the action.

I don't really see or feel a "gap". there is a minor possible hairline crack there though.... If I remove the stock, I'll inspect the head, and go from there.

[Kevin McCormack]

Joe, the person who did that to your trigger guard HAS to be related to the moron who did the exact same thing to the guard on my 16 ga. 0 frame AH Damascus gun - there would be a perfect DNA sequence match between the two of them!

[Researcher]

If that is a proper, period correct, recoil pad with the legend "PAT. APPL'D FOR" at the bottom of the logo on the face --

00001. Ithaca Bridge Trestle pads.jpg

I'd do everything possible to save it. The repros are of the post war style with the word "PATENTED". From its introduction in 1932 through the end of NID production in 1948, the Ithaca "Bridge Trestle" Pad was only offered in the medium size. NID Magnum-10s, if found with an original recoil pad, usually have a seven-slot Jostam Anti-Flinch or a 15-heart Hawkins. By 1950, when they changed to the aluminum base of the pad it was offered in medium and large. The repros from Kings Ferry were offered in both sizes.

Have you had a chance to weigh your new toy? I have a similar 1941 vintage No. 4E, 16-gauge, 26-inch, ic & mod, that is quite the little chunk at 7 pounds 2.6 ounces.