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Unread 05-11-2011, 12:59 PM   #11
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What about the HT A stamp?? I have not seen that before. I have not seen the gauge stamped on the lug before but then I haven't seen a lot in life
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Unread 05-11-2011, 01:18 PM   #12
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I believe that represents Heat Treated & Annealed.
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Unread 05-11-2011, 03:51 PM   #13
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Is that another means to describe the case hardening process??
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Unread 05-11-2011, 04:15 PM   #14
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No Jack, a completely different process was used on the barrels than case hardening.
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Unread 05-13-2011, 11:13 AM   #15
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First I would like to thank are the members here who have provided all the great info about this Parker, especially Jack Cronkhite. Jack and I have exchanged several PM’s about the features it has. The request for the letter went in the mail today. I can’t wait to see what it says.

I hope the letter verifies the no safety option. I can't see any evidence that it was removed at a later date.


I’ve spent quite a few hours reading the FAQ’s and browsing the forum. The info that is available is amazing. I hate to waste anyone’s time by asking questions before checking to see if the info is already out there. From what I’ve read is seems that the screws, trigger guard and trigger should be blued and the forearm metal should be case hardened. Is this correct?

I don’t have any specific Parker books so I’ve also been reading info that’s posted on the internet. I’m always suspicious about info I get out there until I can verify it. Some of the info I found is:
There were 3983 VH models with straight stocks.
The no safety option was the rarest Parker option.
Less that 1% were made with the no safety option.
Can anyone verify if these are accurate statements?

The serialization book verified the barrel length but says it has a pistol grip stock. Jack recommended that I check under the lower tang to see if the serial number was on the stock. The serial number is stamped there. The lower tang is a little over 6” long from the back of the trigger guard to the tip.


Most of the screws appear to be turned and some have damage. The worst is the pivot pin screw. I’m going to very carefully try and move the metal back into place. I’ve had to do this many times on some of my old Winchesters and other SxS’s.


The worst problem it has is the toe of the stock. The finish is scratched off and there is a chip missing. Luckily there is no damage to the buttplate. I’ve been reading about the correct finish for the stock. I haven’t decided what to do about this yet.


Instead of trying to put a lot of photos here I created an album (Marty’s 1921 Parker VHE) and put the photo in it. If anyone would like to see more pictures of any details let me know and I’ll add them.

Thanks again for putting up with all my questions and graciously providing me all the information.
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Unread 05-13-2011, 11:20 AM   #16
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A good stock guy can splice a piece in there and touch up the finish well enough to make it hardly detectable. For that gun it's well worth it. See our home page links button to find the stock repair folks.
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Unread 05-13-2011, 12:15 PM   #17
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Marty: Pays to visit the pawn shops.

These screws are all mixed up on reassembly. Probably the rear screw was meant to be a left or right and the left or right screws are also on the wrong side. The left screw will have a straigt cut across the tip. The right screw will have no marking. The rear screw "should" have a + cut on the tip if all three screws are the same length. If one screw is obviously longer than the rest, that is the rear screw. If you remove them, and if they are the originals, for sure you will find the left screw and be able to place it in the proper hole and it should index with the slot stopping in line with the long axis of the gun, as they all should. (Left means under the left barrel btw)



Here is the left screw mark. Ignore the comment on the + mark in this picture. I need to fix that. Still learning. + was a mark used to identify the rear screw when all three were of the same length. By default, the screw with no mark is the right screw, when all are the same length. Replacement screws, to my knowledge, are not marked.


Have a very close look at this engraved area on the underside. That is the location for the safety slide. If it was removed welded and refinished there may be evidence of that on the underside. Or..... wait for the letter
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Unread 05-13-2011, 12:21 PM   #18
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I have a gun just like yours. recieved letter back and it started as a pistol grip was sent back to factory and was returned without safty and a straight grip.
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Unread 05-13-2011, 01:20 PM   #19
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Keep us informed on that letter business.
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Unread 05-13-2011, 02:10 PM   #20
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Jack, I feel like a dummy. I hadn't touched any of the screws. When I check them they were loose. When I tightened them they lined up correctly. They are all three the same length. The left has a "-" and the rear one has a "+".

I can't see any evidence of the underside of the top tang being welded up. I didn't remove the stock completely since I didn't want to remove the sears. Also the top of the stock is not relieved for the safety mechanism. Is there anything else I should get a picture of before I reassemble it?
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