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08-19-2014, 12:16 PM | #3 | ||||||
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No, was more just curious to his claim that it protected the stock from cracking.
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08-19-2014, 01:35 PM | #4 | ||||||
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my impression is that it is done to seal against oil not to add strength to avoid cracking
I know some muzzleloader builder use it. it should seal the fibers - as i understand it- fresh wood will soak up a lot of it, until you stop- then the seal is complete since it dries so quick
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"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE |
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08-19-2014, 01:55 PM | #5 | ||||||
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Brian,
I have seen many of ya'll talk about glass bedding, but I haven't been able to find any info on how someone would do it on their own gun rather then sending it off? |
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08-19-2014, 04:05 PM | #6 | ||||||
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Bill: I have done glass bedding on several bolt guns. I have glass bedded one VHE. The VHE pukker factor was 100 times what the bolt guns were. I would not recommend anyone doing this to a double gun without experience. You could wind up with a ruined stock and a receiver full of steel hardened Acraglas. Bob
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08-19-2014, 06:26 PM | #7 | ||||||
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I would keep sucking oil from the stock until no more comes out, before I went to step two. What do the experts say about that?
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08-20-2014, 12:13 PM | #8 | |||||||
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Quote:
I finally received the buttstock and action of my HE Fox back after it required THREE incredibly complex de-oiling and extraction procedures, each of which took weeks to completion. The exasperation of the stockmaker was near complete when he finally identified the oil he was trying to remove as none other than Sperm whale oil! Perfectly natural that it would be that given the vintage of the gun (1923). It was a common lubricant back then, and of course, in the true spirit of the American way, more was better! The extraction solvents used ranged from denatured alcohol to acetone to MEK to aromatic C9 hydrocarbon liquids. The original intended repair of the stock to correct a very old pre-splintering glue job that of course did not hold due to the oil soak had to be completely redone after the extensive de-oiling series. Only last weekend, yet another oil-soak related saga will result in my having to have a new ejector forend made for another beautiful graded smallbore. Those of you who have been there can feel my pain in the wallet! I don't have any experience in using Super Glue in sealing/reinforcing stocks and/or forends, but I can tell you unequivocally the VERY first thing I would do with these 100+ year old guns is to have the actions glass bedded by someone who knows what they are doing. It will save lots of headaches later on from cracking, splitting, chipping and splintering of the wood. This simple but detailed process involves using accurately mixed epoxy, suitable release agents, due diligence in application and curing, and above all, attention to detail. But first you have to get ALL of that oil out! |
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08-19-2014, 07:00 PM | #9 | ||||||
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I am definitely going to get all the oil out 1st. I was just curios after that conversation.
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08-20-2014, 06:28 AM | #10 | ||||||
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I've used tri-sodium phosphate to de-oil with great results. The oil pours out of the wood like coffee. And there was no damage to the wood when done.
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