Parker stock colors

[David Lampman]

First off I'd like to say thanks to the members for helping me determine the condition (well used), grade (G), with cut replacement barrels and a little history of my never to be a collectable again, 1907 Parker. Even though she's not a collectable I am determined to get her back into shooting shape and spiff her up.
I'm starting with the stock. Many thanks to Brian Dudley for posting disassembly pictures here. They and many post on this forum made disassembly a breeze (and yes I used the correct screw drivers ). There's no hint of the original finish on the stock and it has the cross bolt repair at the wrist someone else did with an obvious crack down the center to the right side. The checkering is worn badly but this stock isn't worth the cost of re-checkering so I'm going to leave it as is. I softened up the plastic wood that filled the 3/8 hole for the cross bolt with lacquer thinner and removed it. Then I took the cross bolt out to find it to be the only support for the crack. Then I started the stripping (I used that non toxic orange stripper that worked great) and degreasing (the heat gun carefully applied, with the aide of acetone did most of the work). I won't bore you with the details but let's just say I was at it for days. I'm finally satisfied that I've got all the oil out that I'm going to get out of the stock. After reading many post on this forum I have successfully repaired the crack and I am ready to start refinishing.
I've read that Parker stocks of this period have a reddish tint that was added by using a stain made of linseed oil mixed with either Dragons Blood or Alkanet powder and a Japan dryer to get the reddish color. Is that correct? Or at least correct enough to get the reddish color I'm looking for? Which coloring agent would you use?
After I decide what stain concoction I'm going to use, I'm going to use amber shellac because I've read most of Brian Dudley's posts and he says that's what Parker used. But I can't decide what method to use. I'm leaning towards the French Polish method. But I would love for Brian to respond as to the method he uses to apply the amber shellac (hint, hint). His work I've seen on this forum is spectacular.
Also Brian, if you choose to respond, I'd like to know what dye you use on the checkering I saw in one of your very informative posts. I think it would enhance the appearance of my very worn checkering. Also, what tool do you use to apply it without the dye bleeding out beyond the checkering? Maybe tape to the edge and a thick dye and a small sponge???
Thanks in advance for any ideas and or responses,
Dave

[Dale Medders]

How about some pictures of your gun?
Here is my VH I stained with a red tone.

[David Lampman]

Dale,
if you would refer to my other post for the pics of the gun before I started.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16401

or another way to find the pics is on pages 2&3 of my other post in the general discussion section titled "Barrel I.D."

Real nice job on your stock! What did you use to get the red tone?
HTH
Dave

[Dale Medders]

I sent you a pm. I am interested in picts of the checkering.
I will pm you my secret P Red "proprietary red I call it"

[Dale Medders]

I am a Sucker for RedHeads





I need practice posting picts. Thanks for looking

[Dean Romig]

I would suggest the Alkanet powder for the red finish seen on a lot of '1907' era Parkers.
I had a 1903 Damascus barreled GH with a wonderfully figured American black walnut stock that had an original rich reddish finish.
When I bought it the hard rubber dog's head butt plate was shattered and I carefully fitted a NOS Jostam No-Shok pad to it, then all I did was to enhance the wood by hand rubbing it with Tru-oil.




.

[B. Dudley]

Parker stocks were originally finished with Amber Shellac. That is where any reddish color comes from. And that alone. Stains and dyes were not used originally.

Many people who use stains and dyes on Parker stocks today end up with a result that is just too dark to look correct. In my opinion.

See photos here of my CH upgrade. One photo showing the wood with just a single coat of clear sealer (which darkened the original light color a little), then finished photo showing Amber Shellac finish on it. The color was achieved with just shellac.

IMG_2732.jpg

IMG_5548.jpg

Shellacs are available in various colors if you mix from flakes. I just use the Zesner Bullseye Amber Shellac. Which from what I understand is the exact same composition as it was 100 years ago.

A french polish can also be considered a Shellac finish since it is just shellac applied in a different manner.

As far as other available finishes that yield a good color to replicate that of a shellac finish, I have found Timberluxe to work well in doing this. However this would not be considered an Original method of finishing the wood since it is a modern material.

I use a couple different things to darken my checkering after it is cut. Depending on what look I am trying to get.

For application of checkering dye, I use just a small brush and a careful hand. Some of the stuff I use will not effect the surrounding finish and will only take to the bare wood of the cut checkering. Others will effect the finish and much care needs to be taken.

Regardless of what anyone may tell you, original looking checkering should be darkened with something. This is based on my observation of higher condition original Parkers. Checkering that is just oiled with a clear finish ends up being the same color or lighter than the rest of the stock. The pattern does not stand out and just gets lost when looking at it from a distance. Look at any high condition original Parker and the checkering will stand out from a distance. Yes, it may not be as dark as freshly stained checkering since some handling may have worn the color off the tops of the diamonds. But it is dark.

See here photos of the checkering on a Trojan that never left the Parker showroom.

101_0894.jpg

[King Cobb]

Brian I have a stock I refinished with truoil that is light like the 1st one. Is there anything I can do to darken it without completely refinishing it?

[B. Dudley]

Not really. Tru-oil is not a finish that really darkens the wood much. It does penetrate. Unlike Urithanes that sit on the surface of the wood. But it only darkens the wood a little. There may be some stains out there that will take over top of Tru-oil, but I do not know of any specifically.

Ground coats with a good penetrating sealer may have given you a little darker of a look with Tru-oil. Basically, with Tru-oil being a clear finish, you are just accenting the natural color of the wood. Which I have no issue with. I think the best way to finish wood is something that will best accent the natural beauty of the wood. Unlike some manufacturers that cover the wood with all sorts of heavy stains to where it doesn't even look like wood anymore.

[King Cobb]

could you add alkanet powder to Tru-oil? Or would it not fully mix.