[Old and Reliable]

Yes to the first three- not 100% sure on 4 and or 5- I used a small but powerful flashlite and it seemed that the leaf of the spring that engages the notch of the top lever hadn't "bottomed" into that cut- But the location pin was firmly in the drilled hole for same in the tang--

Also when I looked the receiver and tangs over, after cleaning out years of black oil residue- at first I thought it was a burr on the top tang shoulder left barrel side- but it is a flat headed set screw, some Kroil and the right Grace screwdriver and it came out cleanly- NF threads and a unthreaded almost conical tip- so I cleaned out the tapped hole and the set screw and replaced it, after dressing the head and groove with a fine file- What is the purpose of that screw pls?- I have a guess, but would value your opinion-

Another thought- as I have some Smiths and also strip, clean and replace some parts (NOT single triggers or ejectors though) if worn--having the Brophy specs. book is invaluable, even to an amateur like myself, all the parts, the metallurgy and the heat treating specs when applicable, are called out. Is there such a book for the Parkers?

PS- went back and tried this-as I have the broken leaf spring- original to the gun, the stop pin is almost at the very radius at the bend- but on the later Dixie gun works spring you sent me, the pin is ahead or toward the two outer leaves (leafs?) just about a heavy 1/64th"-if I invert the new Dixie spring, it will bottom perfectly and the top lever will function properly locks to dead center on top tang, and the trip inside the receiver well releases the lever, as do the barrels as well- BUT- then the spring is not contained or stopped from rearward travel by the pin, and trying to move the existing drilled and bottomed stop pin hole forward towards the breech is not practical- not enough "meat" and as the metal was case hardened (still has some color in protected areas) there is also that to consider-