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Unread 03-12-2016, 01:47 PM   #28
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B. Dudley
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Well, sort of. I would not recommend using any sort of power equipment on the pad while it is attached to the stock. Too many chances of things to go wrong.

What i do is true up the base of the pad since most are not flat from the start. I attach the pad to the stock, get the outline of the stock by scribing it with a sharp awl or something of the sort. Remove the pad. Sometimes the line is plenty visible as is or it may help to use something to show it off. I like to use the blue chalk line chalk. Just sprinkle it on and rub it into the line to show it better.
I then mount the pad to a grinding jig. I use a miles gilbert jig. I use a T-bevel to get the angle of the toe and heel in order to set the jig to for grinding. I use a 12" radius sander for grinding. I grind the toe and around the sides half way up first and then i set angle for the heel and do that end. I grind up to the line and not past it.
I then remount the pad. Usually there is about enough to catch your fingernail on after grinding. It is at this time that i do use 3M painters tape on the wood and use strips of polishing cloth to bring down what is left by hand. The blue 3M tape holds up well to sanding on it and it flexes nicely for curved butts.

The type of pad plays a big role here since some hand finish nicer than others. The bases are all about the same, but the rubber part can be problematic when hand sanding. Most of the vintage style pads finish well on their sides.
Sometimes you then have to finish the back with plugs as wih a silvers pad. The strips of polishing cloth work well here. Also wet sanding with oil will get a smooth finish at the end. For back finishing, personally using the Silvers number 3 pads thag CSMC sells. The back and the corners shape and sand VERY well. Their cheaper "period correct" pad does not sand very well on the face.

I hope this information helps some. Again, this just what i do. It does not mean it is right or wrong. Just what i do and what i have found to work well.
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