Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Yearout
Orphan Annie has that same forend crack. It was there when I bought her and it’s still there.
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I didn't mention it in the post, but before the gun arrived I checked to see if there were any fore ends available as replacements in case it was serious. Oddly enough I easily found multiple factory original units from $25 to $100. Most of them were in good shape with the exception of the same hairline crack in line with the left side mounting screw in the face of the fore arm. I had never heard mention of it but the results of my 20 minute search leads me to believe that their must be a common flaw related to the screw location and stress. Pictures I have seen make me think that it is a problem on the ejector model. Two pictures I saw of non ejector forearms had not cracked.
I am going to glue it and insert a fine brass pin from inside so I don't have to think about it. I haverepaired cracks in numerous foreends on break action guns in this area. My preferred method now is to remove the wood, coat the crack on the inside with a gelled super glue, then gently spread the crack apart and release it with the outside of the crack pointing down. Five or 6 repeats seems to pump the glue down into the crack. With a light plastic protected clamp, the clamp will usually close completely and a tiny visible glue bead appear outside. Wipe the glue bead off with a paper towel moist with solvent and let it dry. I then drill a 3/32" hole at an angle from the rear area covered by the iron, I mix a drop of gel epoxy, force it into the hole with a section of 1/16" welding rod and then seat the rod below the surface. Buff the outside when dry and you generally can't see the crack. For buttstocks in the grip area, I do the same with 1/8" rod.
Technically I actually use brazing rod to avoid any future iron corrosion problems.