Quote:
Originally Posted by Garry L Gordon
I would like to know more about the process and how they transfer their work to the piece being engraved. I’d imagine there is thorough planning.
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Gary and Craig,
I sent a note to Jim DeMunck and mentioned this thread and how an engraver might go about setting up a job.
Here is his reply:
"I layout the major scroll line and that's it (aside from borders and if needed circle and oval type shapes within the pattern that may contain figures, initials etc)
The layout is simple pencil line on the clean steel surface. Sometimes I burnish the steel with a fine scotchbrite pad in diff directions first. That makes the pencil marks easier to see.
Then draw the major scroll lines but that's it. No detail with in them at all.
The drawn lines can be changed easily enough.
Sometimes I change my mind when cutting and make small changes in how a scroll will take off from another and things like that.
I don't fret about drawing them perfectly, I find I can not. I get them pretty good in pencil line. I can cut them better than I can draw them.
Lifting the final cut 'panel' of engraving for use as a pattern to be used again:
I take a piece of card stock, like a business card.
Rub some wax on one side. The wax is usually called transfer wax, I think you can still buy it.
I have some from yet from my beginning days I just keep adding to. Not too soft, not too hard.
The last time I melted in a green crayon to build it up.
Rub some of the wax on one side of the card.
On the other, dampen the card slightly, Either with your DNA from your tongue or a touch of water.
Now place the dampened side down on the engraving.
Hold it securely in place and take a Burnisher and run it back and forth over the waxed side (face up side)
The dampened card material will be pushed into the engraving cuts by the burnishing. The wax will prevent the card from being torn up during the process.
It doesn't take a lot of pressure, nor a lot of time.
The impression will reveal every little cut, mark, detail of the engraving in reverse of course when carefully pulled up and off.
Let the card dry for few minutes and there's your transfer pattern.
To lay the pattern back down on the next gun/piece your are doing:
Take the Transfer Wax again and get some onto your thumb.
Dot it onto the metal surface and cover the area. It wil look cloudy from the wax. That is what you want.
Then take the pattern and lightly swipe over it with a charcoal pen or a piece of dark colored chaulk.
You don't need a lot, Just enough to grab onto the high spots in the pattern. If you get more on it, just flick the pattern with your finger and the excess will fly off.
Lay the pattern back down onto the area carefully. Here I usually have already cut the pattern down to the borders or some other feature on it. That allows me to line it up easier on the gun.
Lay the pattern down. Hold it carefully in place and very lightly Burnish the back once again.
This time just a few strokes. You can even just use your finger for this.
This will imprint the charcoal/chaulk from the backside into the wax on the gun.
Lift off the pattern and there's your perfect image of the pattern you already cut.
You have to be careful of course, it can be easily smeared away.
That's a transfer image for the same side of the gun.
If you want to use that pulled image pattern for use on the other side of the gun, you can't as it will need to be reversed direction.
To do that:
Take the card with the pulled image and skip the wax on the back side.
Put wax on the image side this time. Right over and into the pulled pattern image.
Do the areas of the card that are out side the pattern as well.
Now use the charcoal pen/chaulk and go over the pattern as before.
This time take plain scotchtape and place it onto the pattern where you just waxed and charcoal/chaulked the image.
Lay down extra strip(s) if one won't cover the entire pattern.
Lightly burnish, then pull the tape off of the card.
The tape sticky side will have the charcoal image of the pattern on it, though very lightly.
Wax the metal surface where the pattern will go once again.
Then lay the tape pattern down n the waxed steel (this one is easier to line up as you can see through it at least some what.)
Lightly burnish again and remove the tape slowly.
The charcoal image will remain on the steel But it will be very light and I usually draw over the main scroll lines with pencil.
The tape with the image I stick down on a plain piece of paper and use that for reference while cutting should I loose any detail or cannot see exactly from the transfer what I need to see to cut it.
This tape stuck down on a piece of paper or cardboard will look like the familiar 'smoke print'.
Smoke prints are nice. They look great. Nice reference
But as far as using them for any sort of transfer process, I don't see their advantage.
There are other ways to transfer patterns. Everyone likely has their own way.
What ever works for you and gets you the best results IS the best way.
Results matter."
End of Jim's detailed explanation.
If this might generate some questions, post them here.
He usually spends the first day at the NE Shoot at Ernie's in June. I'm sure he'd be happy to talk about it down there too.
I hope this helps.
Bill