Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Oliver
This could get me in some trouble(adding to my Parker collection trouble)...
I have these shells in 10 and 12 gauge in varying lengths. The 10ga. 2 5/8" are great for the short chambered early 10 gauge lifters and really a must have for them in my opinion. I also use the 2 7/8' 10s in my top action guns and was able to stuff 4 drams of 2f black powder and 1 7/8 of bismuth BBs(by volume) for a successful Tundra Swan hunt.
The 12s are great as well and I have those in 2 1/2" and 2 5/8". A significant step up from Magtech shells and they say Parker on them!
I usually use black powder with these shells though I know someone who uses the the 19gr Red Dot and 1 1/8oz. recipe in there 10 gauge hammer gun without issue.
To me this is like buying a "Yeti" cooler or mug. There is some sticker shock, but once you have it you appreciate the quality.
Do 8 gauge lifters and top-actions have the same chamber length? I will probably buy 25 of these shells just to have them, though I don't have an 8 gauge gun yet. Ideally I would like a 8 gauge lifter, but wouldn't turn down a nice top action gun either.
This is going to sound like a strange way to back into a gun, but a year or so ago, I bought(and really paid too much) for what I thought was Parker Bros. 10 gauge capper. It turned out to be an 8 gauge capper. So now I get the shells and hopefully have the gun soon...sounds like a decent plan right?
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Actually when I bought my first 10 gauge. I picked up one like this but non-Parker on eBay. had five or six and I bought the nicest looking one for $32.
Turned out to be a good move. You can buy 12 gauge and down shell holders for regular presses and either tuse the press arm or an RCBS Benc Automatic priming tool to prime brass cases.Bigger than 12 is a real problem. The instructions to insert and press down on a smooth surface is way over rated. It usually takes about 6 tries a case to get it inserted far enough and square enough to get this done without the primer falling out. Since the case stays upside down with these tools you simply open the tool, drop in the case, lay the primer on the seat and press it in. Works as slick as can be. You need the tool, a case size dowel, a second dowel with a pin or better a cut off depriming punch from an old die epoxied into a second dowel and a piece of hard wood with a base recess and a primer hole bored.
You can get in the 8 gauge or 10 gauge business for $50.
If shooting plastic 10 gauge 2-5/8, look up my post where you can use a a $70 12 gauge Lee Load All with the use of a couple of big washers as spacers as long as you roll crimp or use overshot wads glued in.