Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Ranney
I’m new here and have been reading all I can here and on the web as well. I’ve read Tom Flannigans work diligently, your input here, and spoke with Dale Edmonds briefly on the phone. You guys have some incredible knowledge and experience regarding Damascus so I have some questions to clear my confusion.
I’m working on a 1906 LC Smith double hammer that’s Damascus. There were some very feint indications of a pattern in small spots under bright light. I’ve polished with 400 grit and ready to use Laurel Mountain. I know every set is different so here’s my questions and thoughts.
I intend to rust, and card dry with denim twice prior to first boil. Will rusting twice prior matter?
When carding do I attempt to make the rust blend perfectly, and how much rust gets removed? Until it all disappears?
After boiling, should I let them cool prior to carding? I’ll be carding with the barrels submerged.
When removing the oxide created on the first boil, does all of it get removed or is there an even darkness left? I’m assuming that I would see some pattern beginning to emerge.
How much pressure should I apply when carding after etching with 3/o or 4/o steel wool?
I’ll be using Ferric to etch and probably the soda solution while carding.
I appreciate all input I can get for this. Oh, I will strive to get my barrels done as well as the photos in this thread! They’re beautiful. Awesome work gentlemen.
Richard
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A few of comments:
1. I polish no finer than 230. The coarser grit provides a better surface for the compound to grab and the barrels will wear better than with finer grit.
2. Card with 4/0 steel wool after the boiling process. Card until all the rusting residue is removed. The barrels will be gray at first but will darken with each iteration. You don’t have to worry about carding off the bluing that is building up. It is tough and will not be diminished with 4/0 steel wool. Card until the barrels are perfectly smooth.
3. It is better to let the barrels cool because cooled barrels are easier to handle. Use clean cotton gloves while carding. Use no gloves with a rubber surface. No need to card submerged barrels. It is much better to let them dry and cool somewhat before carding. Its much easier and you can better see that all the residue is removed. Card as hard as necessary to remove the residue.
4. After the barrel etch, apply baking soda to stop the rusting process and run the barrels under the faucet and thoroughly rinse them. Then I gently card the barrels with a baking soda slurry on my fingers to get the contrast.