Anyone had this happen?
 

Last night, shooting skeet with my 28 Ga. Repro; with regular shooting glasses on, where this old guy can't see up close; my gun's ejectors were sticking out so much the gun wouldn't close, hmmm; and I would have to push them in a bit to get the gun shut.
Well, a few shots later, and I saw the little dolls-head replacement metal piece was sticking up & out, so I put it in my pocket. Then, the ejectors were loose, in that they would come completely out of the gun if I didn't stop them.
So, today.....I have to put on a pair of glasses and see if the screw is ruined.
At first, I thought it sheared off, but it didn't, and sticks out a bit.

Anyone know where I can get a screw for the dolls-head for a 28 Gauge Repro?
:banghead:
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Sam
The ejector problem you are having seems to be common in the repro 28's the best fix is to install a retainer screw in the recoil lugs and modify the ejectors to retain like an extractor. The small retainer plate will eventually tear out the small screw.

You may have a bit more of a problem than what is immediately obvious.
If the screw backs out and the plate starts to pop out of place you need to check the edges of the tapered slot cut into the doll's head that accomodates the stop plate. The stop plate is hardened but the edges of the slot on the doll's head, not so much. Those edges are critical to the fit of the stop plate and can bend over, or out.

I just saw Brad's comment and his remedy is probably the best permanent remedy possible.

Brad, the stop screw you recommend will take considerable pounding from the ejector rods over time so it needs to be hardened to resist being damaged. The section of the screw that accepts the pounding would necessarily need to be cut below the threads to avoid damage to the thread - 'free shank' in other words... right?

Dean - those threads would definitely need to be cut down below the minor diameter.

I am surprised to learn that this is a common problem with the Reproductions. (Thanks Brad)

All of the dovetail clearances between plate and bbl are nice and tight on all of mine..having said that, I do ensure that the retaining screw is adequately snug whenever I do an annual clean-up following heavy use through the season.

Following an initial cleanup to remove old grease/gunk, rarely, if ever do I tap the stop plate in/out in order to keep the fit nice and tight...maybe I'll check the retaining screw more often.

Sam..you might also clean everything up really well paying particular attention to the internal thread of the plate and see if the screw will freely pass through end for end..if not, you may want to get yourself a tap along with an extra screw or two provided you find them. Wish I could tell you what size but am not near my safe at the moment..maybe Brad can advise?

—

For general guidance - if the plate is ever removed from the dolls head..I would advise paying very meticulous attention when re-installing it to ensure it is wedged in nice and straight before driving it home by tapping very lightly using only brass punches..ideally the punch would have a small radius on the face. I also prefer a small & light brass/copper hammer when doing this sort of thing.

That "feature" is particularly delicate to a degree and susceptible to damage....questionable design for the home hobbyist to work on (which I don't think was Parkers intent), but I likes it!

Dean

We use a hardened stainless steel screw with a radius on the tip. If the dovetail is damaged we fit an oversized stop plate.
The pounding is what deforms the dovetail and loosens the stop plate.

Brad; Would You be willing to work on my gun? And, if so, do you need the whole gun?
"Fixing" the gun so it was an Extractor would be completely acceptable to me, as I just never "kick" shells out anyway.
I was a bit surprised to hear/see this is a problem, but would much prefer to have the gun an extractor than to have it be a "broken gun," even though I have no intentions of ever selling it anyway.

Sam
To install the retainer screw we need the barrels only. To convert to extract only we like the entire gun to be able to test it.

Thanks

Brad

Personally, I would leave it as an ejector gun with Brad's suggested repair. At least that way, it will pop the spent cartridges into your waiting hand.

Will this also occur in 20 ga. repros. and other gauges or is it unique to the 28?

I had the same problem with the
CSMC .410 BARRELS. I called them and
they sent me 2 more plates and screws.
I installed the new one and it lasted
3 shots and broke. Sent the barells to
Bill Schwartz and he installed an oversized
stop plate that he makes out of special
steel. I then called and sent pictures to
CSMC and talked to rep and they cared
less. Have since shot 500 shells no problem