10 gauge hull trimmer
 

Seen this yesterday its a 3d printed hull trimmer, Ive been noticing small shops making reloading items for odd calibers using 3d printing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/26521169068...3ABFBM-s-pkrBf
Also seen these guys and its a veteran owned operation https://reloading3d.com

I asked my son if he could print me a block for 28ga. shells for my loading bench. Not that I absolutely needed it but more to see what he could do with his printer. He made this block and I was pleased to see how accurate the final product was.

I have some metal 3d printed stuff I think its stainless steel, I figure eventually one of these small shops will have a 3d metal printer and will give them more options of what can be made. You can smooth out the textures on 3d printed materials with different methods. Someone actually 3d printed shotshell cases but I think where they failed is they didnt use a steel ring in the base like the old activ hulls.

Heres a example of 3d printed "smoothing". I really like the idea of making one off or custom items/gear more economical or possible.

My son found a users group that shares their software and there's no end to the items that people have written the software to make. He's not adept at CAD yet but has printed lots of useless things, and lots of clever, useful item also.
He has found that using different 'wire' yields different surface finishes and I honestly think the shell block he made for me would measure about 160rms.
He just sent me a picture of a 'Pelican' type box he made to hold 4 shells blocks, with all parts including the O-ring 3D printed. I love gadgets, and it's tempting.....

Theres all sorts of filaments that can be used and being developed, I was looking at a flexible one the other day that had some interesting properties. Just seen this fellow use a 3d printed primer/deprimer for the 8 gauge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZD4YsroTvQ&t=30s

Interesting but it is very dependent on uniform base wad height.

I make these 10ga trimmers by soldering two 3/4" copper pipe couplings then trimming to desired length. They index on the rim so all cases are the same length, never needs adjusting.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/eKRcGm.jpg

12ga one can be made from just a length of 3/4" copper pipe.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/hEq6fK.jpg

12ga in uses to show operation.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/5XqVfj.jpg

I have seen pvc pipe and steel pipe used like that for hull trimming. Have also seen people use the mini harbor freight chop saw but seems like that would leave a extremely rough case mouth.

I'll throw a variation out here.

Instead of couplers, you can also buy a 3/4" repair piece that is basicaly is a 6"-7" pipe with an ID equal to the OD of standard pipe. (They are used to repair a split or holed pipe by cutting out the bad spot, sliding it over one and then the other, then soldering. It uses 1 instead of three pieces, does away with the need for critical measuring, and requires only 2 solder joints. Because it slides along the pipe, it can be inserted in a straight section without pilling one section back 1/2". This is sometmes a real problem.)

Anyway, you can buy one of these and make of couple of different trimming lengths for 10 gauge with just two quick tubing cuts. It is the same as making the 12 gauge version and much easier. You can also take a 3/4" wooden dowel from hard wood such as oak and simply cut an easy to handle length off square. Insert it into the shell after putting the shell in the trimmer and it gives a good hard surface to cut against. There just enough free play to wrap a couple of layers of masking tape around the dowel. It allows the blade to cut without the casing collapsing inward if cutting in that direction. The tape can be replaced easikly periodically. If you trim to different lengths or with different basewads, you will end up with a set of small grooves at all the required loacations.

I personally like to trim with a small backsaw with no set and fine teeth.You can find these made like Japanese pull saws or ones made for cutting fret slots or nut grooves on musical instruments. The dowel insert plus small saw allows you to lay the trimmer flat on a bench and simply roll and cut till the hull separates. You can also use a knife pressing down as you roll it, which is a stable way to cut with pressure.