Correct Screwdrivers
 

Wondering what size gunsmithing screwdrivers to buy in order to properly dismantle and reassemble my parker, 10 ga hammer with 3 frame. Would a basic kit include all the necessary or are there odd sizes involved?

OK guys, here is a good one to add to the FAQs. If we can put together a good answer to this, I'll post it in the FAQ page. You know, clean the screw slot and grind one to fit or do the hollow ground commercial sets work out of the box. How does one know when a screwdriver fits the way it should? .... etc, whatever else I don't know to ask.

I have never taken a Parker apart and do not think I ever will, so I am the last person to answer this one. But, this isn't the first time it has come up on this forum so ..... can someone pull together a comprehensive FAQ answer on the topic?

I have 2 identical sets of hollow ground screwdrivers that I bought about 30 years ago. I do not hesitate to hit the grinder with one to make it fit properly. It really paid off all these years! Cheers!

the nice thing about the Brownells set is that you can get the wheel with it to grind them correctly and do a custom fit, and you're just doing a tip, you can get another of the same size if you need it.

I am no expert, but, with hollow ground parallel sides, I like a snug fit side to side and very little if any gap in the length of the slot.

I'm with Rick - get two sets and never hesitate to grind them on a precision wheel - don't use the same grinding wheel you use for general purpose shop work.

Hey Robin - bring that ol' 16 ga. hammer gun over some afternoon and we'll grille up some steaks, toss back a couple of beers and I'll show you what makes that thing tick.

I took on a couple rough Parkers that have been completely dismantled, one of which is back in service. I am not a gunsmith. I asked the same question a couple years back and got a few recommendations. I decided to go with the Brownells sets.

I found that these sets will have a tip that fits (except for the unhooking pin screw. That screw slot is so small, I found what I needed in a set of jeweller's screw drivers). I did not have to grind any of the Brownells tips. You definitely need the "thin set" as well as the "super set".

The goal is to completely fill the screw slot side to side, depth and full width. So, the very first thing to do is clean the slot of debris, rust, dried hard oil or whatever else might be in there. Toothpicks are a good start but if you need something more aggressive a dental pick can be used. Once the slot is clear of foreign matter, you need to find the tip that best fits the slot. You can succeed if the width of the slot is not completely filled (but almost is). Depth and side to side of the slot are critical to be filled by the tip, otherwise there is a good chance of burring the screw head. This is why the wood shop or mechanic's screw drivers with wedge tips should never be used on your Parker screws. You might get away with it but the risk of damage is high. One screw that is often seen damaged is the "joint pin screw". Unless there is a very good reason to remove this screw, like a severely damaged "joint roll", it is probably best to leave it alone. I've started to believe that all those damaged "joint pin screws" out there are due to someone thinking they would take the gun apart without knowing what that screw does. It is a big screw and looks like it should be an easy removal but it is not. Torque transmitted by hand is usually insufficient. The more one applies increasing torque to no avail, the greater the probability of slipping and damaging the head.

With proper driver tips, patience and perseverance and maybe some penetrating oil if needed, non gunsmiths can dismantle, clean and re-assemble their Parkers. You will also need a small hammer, drift punches (brass or nylon preferred over steel) and six inches of 1/4" dowel.

Here are two links. If you decide to DIY, don't scrimp on the driver sets. Your Parker will thank you in the field or at the range. No commission from Brownells but I'm happy with mine.

Jack


Magna tip super set

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...ER_SETS_trade_

Magna tip Thin Set

http://www.brownells.com/1/1/3693-ma...brownells.html

OK, thanks for the info!

Here is what I added to FAQ's, look it over and feel free to comment and I'll make changes as required to make it as clear and accurate as I can.

Thanks again.

How many times have you picked up an old Parker shotgun and looked at distorted or mangled screws after someone tried to dismantle the gun? Anyone who has looked at even a few Parkers has seen them, it may be the biggest problem of all for Parkers.

There is one simple thing to know to avoid adding your Parker to the list of Parkers with "buggered" screws - use the proper screwdriver and take some time getting the best fit to completely fill the slot before trying to turn the screw.

The question of what screwdriver to use was asked on the PGCA forum and the recommendation was to hollow grind them to fit or to purchase a good hollow ground set. The sets sold by Brownell's received favorable comments.

The Brownell sets will have a tip that fits, with the exception for the unhooking pin screw. That screw slot is so small that a set of jeweler's screw drivers is required. The Brownell's tips don't need to be ground but you definitely need both the "thin set" as well as the "super set" screwdrivers.

The goal when selecting a screwdriver is to completely fill the screw slot; side to side, depth and width.

The very first thing to do is to clean the slot of any debris, rust, dried hard oil or whatever else might be in there. Toothpicks are a good start but if you need something more aggressive, a dental pick can be used. Once the slot is clear of foreign matter, find the tip that best fits the slot. The width of the slot may not be completely filled but it is best if it is, the closer the better. It is critical that the fit of the depth and side to side spaces of the slot be completely filled by the tip, otherwise there is a good chance of burring the screw head. This is why the common wood shop or mechanic's screw drivers, with wedge tips, should never be used on your Parker screws.

One screw that is often seen damaged is the "joint pin screw". Unless there is a very good reason to remove this screw, like a severely damaged "joint roll", it is probably best to leave it alone.

If a screw head was "buggered", it may be possible to repair it rather than replace it. Don't file off the burrs but rather just peen it back into place. Filing removes the metal but a "buggered" screw head has all its metal intact, its just not where it should be. With a little care, the metal can be persuaded back into its proper position. Turn the screw back into place and very lightly strike it with a small peen hammer. Tap it lightly and at an angle to work the medal in the direction you want it to move and the vast majority of the burr should be returned into its proper place, leaving a fairly decent slot - not perfect, but decent.

Robin: You have nicely pulled together info from various posts to make a good addition to FAQ's. Hopefully it saves a few original screw heads. A link to Galazan's might be useful for those times when screws are so badly damaged they need to be replaced. They sell a set of Parker action screws for $35. They need to be final fitted as the heads are extra long.
http://www.csmcspecials.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=19
Cheers
Jack

Thanks Jack. I added it to the FAQ.

I don't like to put explicit references to one specific supplier in any of the FAQ's because I don't think it should be doing advertising or any product endorsements, but it this case it seemed like the thing to do. I know finding suppliers of good screwdrivers or Parker screw sets is very difficult, so I thought it would help to add where to find them this one time...?

If anyone has an opinion on how to make the FAQ as helpful without the Brownell and Galazan links, I would be interested in hearing it.

Parker Screwdrivers
 

I have a nice set of squared screwdrivers with wood handles that I think came from Dixie Gun Works. I usually use ordinarary Ace or Tru Value screw drivers; clamp one in a vise and file a parallel blade that fills the slot.
Best, Austn