Case coloring question
 

I'm going to be taking the plunge into the mysterious world of color case hardening on a restoration project I'm taking on, and have a couple question I hope someone might be able to help me with.

The gun is a tired old G grade, 12 gauge hammer gun, with damascus barrels which are tight and on face. The wood and metal are in need of some serious TLC, and the gun is a perfect candidate for a restoration.

My questions today about case coloring is in the preparation of the parts. Do any of you fit shielding to the parts to slow the washing off of the charcoal during the quench, or is dropping the parts "naked" into the quench just as successful for you? Also, when case coloring and entire frame, do you re-assemble the frame with lock plates, top lever, screws, etc. first, or do you pack parts separately into the box?

I know these questions are just the tip of the ice berg when it comes to case coloring, but these are specific questions I have read a lot of conflicting information about, and wanted to see what other people have had success with.

Thank you for taking the time to read my questions, and have a happy New Year.
Forrest

Brad,Would be the one to answer your question.But here is a copy of a page from the "Machinists Handbook" on color case hardening from 1940.