I just went to their web site - sounds like I might give them a try.

I did use both the tru oil and orange shellac but I couldn't get it right, stripped it and reapplied with Timberluxe, what little I had left, and it's just about where I want it. I think two more coats and it'll be done! Thanks guys for the suggestions. It has that flat look to it similar to the gun featured in the Parker pages.

I refinished the wood on a C grade Fox with Timberlux last year. The finish looked perfect, IMO. After over 100 hours in the grouse woods, rain, snow, sweat, ect.. The wood looks like it did the day it was finished.
Dave

Wood finishing and care
 

After studying the article "Untouched Survivors" in the current edition of The Double Gun & Single Shot Journal, written by Ross Seyfried and turning a brilliant shade of envious green I think I'm going to look closely at the products offered by that publication for wood care.

I didn't dare say restoration.......

Gents, as the new owner of an 1881 lifter action, I think I would like to give Timberluxe a try. It appears a previous owner did a good job cleaning away old grime. The wood appears clean and in relatively good shape for a 136 year old gun. However, the finish is quite dull. Would applying Timberluxe on top of the old finish provide a bit of shine and luster? Much thanks! Joe

Hey Joe, yes it will, I have used it before in the past, it will take a few coats but will come out nice.

Rick, much thanks! I decided to order a bottle of Timberluxe yesterday and a Big 45 pad. I scrubbed the barrels and action with a brass brush and Hoppes and was really surprised how nice they look. I read Ross Seyfried's piece in the Doublegun Journal and agreed wholeheartedly. Our guns are actually very similar, though mine is a bit "newer". I will finish cleaning up the metal with the Big 45 pad, apply Timberluxe and that's all, other than straightening a small bend in the toe of the steel butt plate. There is a noticeable gouge in the comb that appears very recent. I would love to get that out but not sure how without sanding and refinishing the stock, which I do not intend to do. Again, much thanks!

Joe

Try a pad wet with water and a iron on high. Lay the pad over the gouge and apply the iron to it. Keep it moving back and forth. When the steam after a couple of seconds quits coming off it, move the pad to a wet spot and redo. If wood is missing this won't work, but a dent will usually rise. You may have to do it a number of times, maybe 20 or 30, but don't be in a hurry. Brownells sells a little triangularly one with a handle but I just use a old iron I bought for $2 at a garage sale. I've raised many a dent with it and a old white sock with a cup of water.

Thanks for the Timberluxe recommendation. I have applied 3 coats and wow, what a difference! It's almost finished. Unfortunately, I tried the Big 45 pad on my LC Smith with Hoppes. It removed the minor surface rust, and a swath of blue. What a shame. Those armor steel barrels will need to go out for reblue.

I've use different oils/finishes. I like Dembart's the best. After checkering I flood the area, work it in with a toothbrush. I'll fill grain with it by sanding it in. After grain is filled, I'll start rubbing it in sparingly. Just a finger dunk and rub, working it in with the palm of your hand. I'll use thin coats until I get the look I want. If I want to tone the shine I'll wipe with a lint free rag after I'm done rubbing the oil in. I'll let it cure for a good week before I handle it or put the gun together.
Chris