Checkering advice needed
 

I have a couple shotguns that I want to "freshen" the checkering on. Before attacking one of my fine guns we're gonna start on a sanded block of walnut to get a "feel", then a butchered VH stock I replaced (shortened 2" then a chunk re-inserted later) . The checkering is very well worn on the fore end as well as the stock grip from countless days afield. I THINK what I need is a basic set of tools in the correct LPI, would like to have a gauge, etc. My question is whose tools and which to purchase? I don't want to spend a mint but know quality tools are a better investment, typically produce better results. Any thoughts and guidance appreciated.

Line per inch spacing varies a lot on Parkers, even within grade. Trojans are normally about 16, VH are about 18 and grades above that can be anything. GS can be as course as 18 snd as fine as 22. Same goes for the rest.

Dembart and gunline are both fine. I personally prefer gunline.

If you are going to get a starter set in a given spacing, I say that 20 is best for the beginner. But if you are recutting original checkering that has feel or is visible, you dont need a spacing tool. Just a single line cutter.
Besides, original checkering may not fall into the confines of the spacing that tools are made in now.

Raw unfinished wood is not great to practice on much because it is hard to see what you are cutting. And the open pores will make cutting a bit harder, especially on species like american walnut vs circassian which is more dense.

If you are going to work with fresh wood, at least sand it out to 220 or 320 and get some finish into it.
And old oily wood such as with an original stock will be very different too and prove its own challenges. Old broken up stocks can be acquired cheaply and are good for practice.

My "restore" projects both have visible checkering, nothing worn completely smooth, just well worn. Sounds like the single line would be the tool. Is the original work on a VH 60 degree? I notice tools come in 60 and 90 degree.
My "new" project is a fore end for a '54 A-5. I purchased a semi-fit replacement and, after a fair amount of very careful effort, got the fit exactly like I wanted. It now needs checkering to match the original. Thanks for the head's up on getting some finish on the raw wood.

I will be following along as I am embarking on a similar journey (see 'recut checkering on parker forend). I went on eBay and after a couple of misses snagged a Dem-Bart checkering set with some additional pieces. Not inexpensive as these sets, DB or GL go for the neighborhood of $100+. My experience in this area is very limited, usually just a simple clean up with couple of riffler files. Thank goodness for the kind advice and feedback received from the members of PGCA and this forum.

Actually P/U an entire premier set of GL from a knife maker supply in Oklahoma called Jantz Supply for $152 including shipping. Guessing it's new "old stock" as price was cheaper than direct from GL. Figured why not. Crazy $$ at Brownells and high even on Ebay.

I do not understand why there is such a demand for checkering tools seem to sell like hot cake guess lots of hobbyist taking up checkering Bobby.

A long winter ahead, married many years, and work and the weather just won't allow a shoot every day. What else is a man to do? Beats knitting.

You will need a special cutter for the mullered borders if you intend to clean them up also. It is Gunline BCN Border-concave cutter.

Keith, you'll need to try different cutters to acquire a preference. I use a variety, but mainly Dembart. I start with one cutter, but I end up with 5 or 6 in front of me in a matter of minutes. Brian is right, lines can vary on a layout. I find and recut a couple good master lines and use those as a guide for completing the pattern. I like space cutters because they'll duplicate that first perfect cut or true up some of those shaky areas. I'll then go through the pattern again with a single cutter. Muller borders I'll freehand with space, single cutters and round files. You just need to jump in and do it over and over, develop your own technique and style. I've learned from my mistakes. I look at other's work and study it. Brian Dudley and Chris Dawe are the best I've seen and learned from! Uniformity and depth of the cuts are everything!
Chris, AZ