I always use a plastic tank to etch so I can watch what is happening and remove the barrels at the appropriate time. Over etching will actually diminish the contrast. I use a 50/50 etch to water solution and carefully watch what is happening to the barrels, removing them at the appropriate time. Each barrel is different, but my etch times are generally 10 seconds or less.

Tom here’s my first etch. Looks like I’m on the right path.

Pardon, but what is (C-26 (X-8) the rusting solution? I have used the laurel mtn browner which worked ok but found that it was very fussy with regard to overlaping strokes and wouldnt tolerate recoating without forming the cuprous oxide which then got in the way of subsequent rust.

very nice!!

C-26 is a rusting solution formula listed in R H Angier’s book Firearm Bluing and Browning. Also known as “Birmingham Brown for Twist”. Oscar Gaddy modified the formula, because one of the ingredients, Sweet Spirits of Nitre, was banned by the FDA after several children died and is no longer available. It was used as a cold sore treatment and fever reducer. It’s function in the formula was to speed evaporation to eliminate runs, so Gaddy substituted ethyl alcohol.
C-26 recipe calls for 50 grams of mercuric chloride. Keep in mind that 2 grams of mercuric chloride can be fatal. Take precautions if you decide to use it. Never dry card without wearing a respirator, or you will inhale it. It also causes insanity. It was used in the making of beaver fur top hats, and was the reason the phrase “Mad as a Hatter” came about. Mercuric chloride must be disposed properly. It is devastating to any aquatic environment. You can’t just flush it down the sink. Kolar was using it in their bluing process and the EPA traced it from the waste water treatment plant back to them and the fine was considerable. Art’s (Herter’s) Belgian Blue also contains Hg2Cl2

Thank you for the informative reply.

Enjoying some better outcomes with black and white lately. Switched my process and gear around a little bit. This is from an 1874 lifter.

That’s a really nice contrast Bill!





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Thank you, Dean. Thankfully, I’m still able to avoid using logwood.

Those are beautiful Bill! As someone new to doing these, would you explain to me why these look ‘white’ when they’re actually steel? Or is the contrast just so great that it appears white? The LC Smith’s I’m finishing up are black and a matte silver color as they were manufactured, but I’d like to learn everything I can about this process. I’ve enjoyed doing these and may look to do more.