Frustrated with Repair Work
 

This winter I purchased a Parker Reproduction 28 gauge two barrel set. After using the 28inch barrels for about 75 rounds the insert on the doll's head started to protrude. I could see that the beveling on the dolls head that held it in place was peeling back. Also the screw holding it was beat up. I returned the barrel to the dealer I bought it from at my cost for shipping for repair. After a month or so it was return at no cost. I looked to have a new insert only. Testing it with snap caps it failed again right away. I returned the complete gun again (they paid shipping) and about 7 or 8 weeks later it was returned. This time I could see a new screw, insert and the dolls head seemed to have some work done on it (welding). Now after putting about 200 rounds through it has failed again. This time the when I ejected the shells the insert was lost and it looks like the head of the screw has snapped off. It is going back to the dealer again at my cost for shipping. I am asked if there was a better gunsmith to be used and was told that his was capable of repair it. Of that I am not sure.

The question I have for the group is "can this problem be fixed?" Is the dealer leading me on hoping I just give up on it and his problem goes away? This gun was a $6,000 investment that I can not afford to write off.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Brad Bachelder has a plan where a setscrew is installed that limits the travel of the ejector blades, thus, preventing the ejectors from striking the the little insert plate.

Brad's solution or a complete deactivation of the ejectors are the two best solutions. Replacement of the ejector springs in the forend with much weaker springs is another solution. The cause of the failure in the first place is probably the activating of the ejectors without shells in the barrels to cushion the blow on the plate.

This problem happens on repros and meriden guns. Seems to be most common on the very small frame sizes where the dolls head is not very tall.

The best solution is to notch the kicker shafts and put a set screw in the bottom of the lug (like the extractor guns have). This allows the kickers to stop before striking the stop plate. The plate can be left in. This is the process that ithers have mentioned above.

I had this same problem, attached is the repair that
Has worked well,

Bill Schwartz did repair

If the plate is not destroyed, I would prefer the installation of a large screw that interrupts the ejector travel before it hits the plate.

So glad I only have 12 gauge guns ...

I would like to see a picture of the repair method
Using large screw to stop the ejector travel, seems it might be easier to do???

If you want to see what it looks like, look at any extractor gun. It operates the same way.

So , you would take ejector rods out, cut
A little flat area in each, reinstall, and then drill hole and
Tread screw to new tapped hole, and it sound like permanent end to problem.

Bryan, it's this correct???