Mechanics of getting a repro engraving recut and case colored
 

I know more then a few members have had their Repro engraving recut/chased etc after the fact and then also sent it out for case color hardening. Since as far as I know, repros were never case color hardened to start with, do they require annealing before the engraving is recut, or can the engraver just recut/engrave them as they are and then send them out for case color hardening? Just trying to understand the process and I would believe this is a place where the knowledge is best obtained. Thanks much. Tom

Tom,
If you "search" for Brian Dudley in this forum you will find many threads where he describes his work and those others who take part in the process.
Bob Jurewicz

The frames do not need any work other than stripping off the factory stain and giving it a light polish, or more aggressive polish if any areas have damage or pitting.

The engraver can work from there. The only thing that needs to be done before coloring is some minor welding on the trigger plate. The lug that the tang screw goes into is not an integral part of the trigger plate. For some reason the factory soldered this part on. And that would obviously not hold up to the cch process. The lug needs to be tack welded down so that it stays put when heat up. I just notch the 4 corners of the joint with a file, fill them with tig weld and clean them up and done.

Thanks Brian. Much appreciated.