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-   -   Recut checkering on Parker forend (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31653)

Cameron Thraen 11-18-2020 07:34 PM

Recut checkering on Parker forend
 
I am starting a winter project to recut the checkering on my 1893 Parker GH S#78013. Worn smooth, but still visible. First off I need some advice on making a cradle to hold the forend wood. Any photos would be helpful. I do not need a full cradle, just something that is solid and will allow me to work on the forend.

{As I am getting into this project I will also separate the stock and receiver so that I can check for hidden splits or cracks, excess oil in head of stock and clean all the internals. Did not originally plan to do this, but here in Ohio it is a long winter and this provides a needed diversion.}

Parker GH S#78013 12b No. 1 frame shipped to Powell & Clement Co. Cincinnati Ohio on July 22, 1893.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61546_500x375.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61668_500x375.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61669_600x400.jpg

Steve Huffman 11-18-2020 07:43 PM

Go to Facebook and look up BMD gunstocks if I remember he has some videos , If you have FB . Thats Brian Dudley site ! Hope this was ok Brian

Robert Brooks 11-18-2020 09:09 PM

Beautiful wood ! Bobby

Brian Dudley 11-18-2020 09:30 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I have built a few checkering cradles over the years. I am currently on cradle 3.0 which is a modified versacradle from Berry manufacturing.

For forends I used to just use a large round dowel (like a ladder rung) with a flat cut on it and I would just tape the forend to it with painters tape. It worked fine.

The PGCA owns, in their collection, an original checkering jig from the Meriden factory for holding forends. It was on display at the NE maybe 5 years ago and I photographed it with the intension of building one. Earlier this year I made a forend jig for my versacradle that was based on that Meriden factory jig.

Here is a photo of the jig that I built. I have used it for a number of other types of forends too, not just parkers. I dont still have a photo of the factory jig on my phone or I would post one. Maybe tomorrow once I get back to my computor if I think of it.
And yes, if you see my FB page, there is more on there about it. I think I posted a few videos explaining my checkering cradle setup.

Attachment 90116

Attachment 90117

Brian Dudley 11-19-2020 10:36 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Here are some photos of the factory forend checkering jig. This would have been able to be clamped in a vice.

Cameron Thraen 11-19-2020 07:06 PM

Brian, thanks. This is very helpful. I will make one this week. I looked at the Versacradle but too expensive as a project investment. I will make a base like the one in the Parker photos. Appreciate the assistance. Really like your FB pages.

Brian Dudley 11-19-2020 07:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
See here the high tech and intricate design of my first forend mounting jig. I used this for years.

Attachment 90133

Cameron Thraen 11-21-2020 12:21 PM

My checkering cradle. Thanks to Brian. This will work just fine. Question? My Parker is a 1893 production gun. I have counted the lpi and I get 18. Is this correct? I can get 16 if I do not count the border lines.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61677_500x375.jpg

Brian Dudley 11-21-2020 07:32 PM

A GH should not be 16. 18 sounds good. They can vary from 18 to 22.

Cameron Thraen 11-21-2020 08:55 PM

The mullered border. On my forend this border is completely or nearly filled with finish. Without giving away hard earned trade secrets any advice on how to go about removing this finish and restoring this border?

Chuck Bishop 11-22-2020 11:34 AM

The finish should be shellac so alcohol should remove it. Can't help you with the cutting the border.

Cameron Thraen 11-22-2020 05:29 PM

Thanks. I am thinking the finish has been refreshed with a BLO sometime in the distant past. I will clean it and remove as much as possible without a complete removal.

Brian Dudley 11-22-2020 05:40 PM

The borders on original parkers are lightly cut and are the first things to wear. Cleaning out the finish will not change the condition of the borders. They will have to be recut.

matt koepnick 11-22-2020 06:08 PM

Checkering cradle
 
1 Attachment(s)
Played in the shop a little today. Managed to some what produce a copy of Brian's cradle .had to guess at dimensions and etc.seems to be a very solid set up. Having recut several wornout pieces without having this item,I can't wait to try it out.what a blessing this is. My thanks to Brian for sharing his set up.

Brian Dudley 11-22-2020 08:30 PM

I will let you know where to send the royalties to.

Looks good.

Cameron Thraen 11-23-2020 03:01 PM

Cleaned off old finish today. Of course this revealed a split that will be sealed and closed up. Then I can start on the checkering recut.

Craig Budgeon 11-23-2020 08:00 PM

A cheap tool that one of the local pros use is fabricated from an extra long 4-40 or 5-40 screw. Generate an approximate 1/2" radius to the screw, heat works, and remove the head. Drill hole in wood dowel and epoxy the screw in the hole. I have used a 1/8" die sinkers file for many years. I ground half the file away so I could see where I was going.

Cameron Thraen 11-24-2020 01:27 PM

Craig, thanks for the reply. See next post.

Cameron Thraen 11-24-2020 01:29 PM

Craig, thanks for the reply. Will your provide some more detail or context as I am having difficulty visualizing your description of this tool? Thanks.

Cameron Thraen 11-24-2020 01:37 PM

Fore end cleaned with discovered split.
 
I have cleaned the finish from the fore end and I have identified a split in the knuckle end ear that I will have to close up before proceeding with checkering.

There is a small amount of oil in the wood at the knuckle end that I would like to extract as much as possible without discoloring the wood. Any and all suggestions welcome. I have removed oil on another project gun (Lefever) but in that case I was able to work with the entire fore end wood and not just one end.

Fore end with finish removed:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61689_500x375.jpg

Fore end split at the knuckle ear:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61688_500x375.jpg

Cameron Thraen 11-24-2020 01:42 PM

I have acquired a set of Dem-Bart checkering tools with a number of bits. I am also making a flat bottom checking tool following the method by Larry Potterfield on Midway YT channel. Any idea where I might find a mullered cutter? I believe that DB made one labeled the BV-N. Have not been able to locate this cutter on ebay. Suggestions welcome.

Craig Budgeon 11-24-2020 02:56 PM

Cameron, take a 1/2" wood dowel 4" long. Drill a 1/8"hole in the center of the dowel 1/2" deep. Now take a 4-40 or 5-40 screw at least 1-1/4" long and generate a 1/2" radius using a propane torch. Epoxy the screw in the dowel and allow it to cure. Its ready for use. The die sinker file I use is German and will set you back about $40. Mine was given to me. I would not recommend the cheap Chinese die sinker files for mullered borders.

Jim DiSpagno 11-24-2020 04:05 PM

I have found that refinishing the wood prior to recuttingthe checkering gives a better job and the checkering comes out better then light finish on new checkering so as not to clog up.

Brian Dudley 11-24-2020 04:59 PM

Parker checkering is NOT flat bottomed. That video by potterfield was not accurate in stating/doing that on that gun.

A mullered border can be cut with a dembart concave border cutter. Or with a U-gouge. Or by using the altered machine screw that craig describes. Or even a rifler file can use used.

Cameron Thraen 11-24-2020 10:18 PM

Thanks to all. Craig I now have what you are describing fixed in my head. Appreciate the clarification. Do you have a photo? That would be useful.

Brian, thanks. I will add a comment to Potterfield YT channel on this error. Save me the time and expense of making a flat bottom cutter and messing up my Parker. Really appreciate it as drill rod is cheap, 01 Swiss checkering file is decidedly not.

So, what did the Parker Bros use to create the flat top checkering ? A 60 degree single line cutter?

Cameron Thraen 11-26-2020 10:22 AM

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61544_500x375.jpg

Brian Dudley 11-26-2020 01:55 PM

Clear Stain?... How does that work?

Cameron Thraen 11-26-2020 03:05 PM

Brian, that is an oxymoron for certain. Good catch. Typed 'clear' when what I needed to type is Pilkington Spirit Stain. Sorry for the confusion. I like this stain when applied sparingly. Not sure it would be correct or right for my early Parker.

Brian Dudley 11-26-2020 05:08 PM

In my mind actual stain should only be used to cover up patches of sap wood, or to blend a repair in or something like that. Or to match a butt to an existing forend, or visa versa.

The natural color of any wood cannot be beat.

I will use Alkenet root in my sealer coats to get a tint of color into the wood, but the difference is only slight.

Cameron Thraen 11-26-2020 07:38 PM

Here are a few photos of the forend to display what I am working with on this project. Question? Should I finish the wood before tackling the checkering?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61734_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61733_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61735_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61736_600x400.jpg

Cameron Thraen 11-27-2020 04:52 PM

Split cleaned, sealed and filled. This split is tight, not deep and does not reach the outside margin.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61742_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61743_600x400.jpg

Cameron Thraen 11-27-2020 05:51 PM

Next up, a divot repair along the left barrel border. Length is 20mm. Photo shows depth. I have used AcraGlas in the past. Open to new ideas and advice.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61744_600x400.jpg

Craig Budgeon 11-27-2020 07:36 PM

Cameron, I do not do pictures. Brians right on stains unless you have cedar shingles on your home. That is a long divot and needs to be filled with closely matching wood not epoxy. The repair sliver should fit perfectly perhaps an 1 1/2" diameter sliver would work well. The exposed repair should have no sharp corners, only well fitted radiuses. Make sure grain direction is an exact match. Glue using instant clear glue, Its strong and the provides a very thin line. Secure with rubber bands while glue cures. Hide blemishes with artist oil paint and turpentine after final shaping.

Craig Budgeon 11-27-2020 08:25 PM

One other thing Cameron, leave the sliver a generous oversize. It only has to fit well with the original wood. Saws, files, and sandpaper will take care of final shaping.

Cameron Thraen 11-27-2020 10:10 PM

Craig, the missing piece has been away a long time as the remaining surface is worn almost smooth. Question, would you square off / clean up the mating surface to which the sliver is glued? Thanks for your interest and help. Appreciated.

Craig Budgeon 11-28-2020 12:36 PM

Cameron, we are not squaring off anything. Basically you are going to take an 1 1/2" dowel, wrapping it with 220 sandpaper, sanding at a 45 degree angle to the plane established by the 2 bore centerlines , and perpendicular to the discharge centerline. This will create a minimal uniform surface in the damaged area. Do not use commercial walnut dowels the grain direction is wrong. You have to make your dowel using either bandsaws, jigsaws, hand saws, or hole saws incorporating matching cardboard templates. Drawing this out on paper will help you get there. There should be no sharp corners making the repair this way.

Craig Budgeon 11-28-2020 12:45 PM

You can use Iron pipe, PVC, or any solid material to sand the damaged area as long as the templates match

Cameron Thraen 11-28-2020 03:00 PM

I add this photo to help show what I will be working with on this repair.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61751_600x400.jpg

Craig Budgeon 11-28-2020 03:51 PM

Firmly grip the forend before you begin sanding the diameter. Take your time, your going to get to look at your repair a lot longer than it took to make it.

Craig Budgeon 11-28-2020 03:56 PM

Picture a cylinder filling in the damaged area of the forend.


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