Question about 1929 Sterlingworth barrels
 

Gentlemen
I was wanting ask a question about the rib on my A.H. Fox 12 gauge. I was at the range the other day and picked up my gun from the rack with my fingers pressing on the top rib between the barrels and noticed that the rib down the center between the 2 barrels flexed in one place. I assumed that it was welded to both barrels solid. But after looking on the underside it seems there are about 3 or 4 round pins that are flush with the bottom rib. My question is are the top ribs pinned to the barrels?? If they are then I could understand it flexing between the pins. Not sure if this is something to be concerned with or not. Thanks in advance for any insight you might have on this matter.

See you in the field.

Kirk,

Your Fox Sterlingworth ribs would have originally been soldered to the barrels and not welded. I don't believe Fox ever used any pins or locating studs to hold either rib in place. I believe Savage bought Fox in 1929 and maybe the later Savage model B guns used pins/screws in their vent ribs but again no Utica or Philly Fox I have ever seen had pins holding a rib on. Usually the solder edge on both undersides of the ribs would have been tapered to fit the barrel contour. Can you post a few pictures? From your description it almost sounds like an old repair job has failed.

Channing.... I will post pictures tomorrow. I will have to take photos tonight at the house. Its a Philly gun almost positive, not a savage. I sure hope nothing is wrong. I have even been to the range since I noticed this. It was only in one place that it flexed. Take a look at the pics tomorrow and let me know if what you think if you would. Thanks

[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 51193[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]I was wrong there are only a couple of those round spots up by where u put the shells in but it flexes about mid way down the barrels. Here are some pics

Thanks for posting the pictures Kirk. It's difficult to say without having the barrels in hand to take a closer look. If I had to guess I would say the "pins" in the rib as shown in the middle picture are actually plugged weep holes that somebody unfortunately added for rebluing. The fact that they stand out leads me to believe the extra weep holes are either filled with plug screws that have been dressed down flush with the rib or just solder. If the rib is loose and you can flex it then some water or bluing solution was likely left in between the ribs. Until you get the rib off you won't really know how bad the damages are or aren't. You may want to have a good gunsmith take a closer look as it may require some extensive work to weld/hide the extra holes, properly relay the ribs and rust blue the barrels.

If you have an air compressor reduce the pressure to about ten pounds and blow some air around the void. If a brown powder comes out, the barrels were hot-blued at some time and the solder has dissolved. The extra plugged weep holes indicate a bluing job, maybe more than one, probably plugged with solder (maybe a lead shot peened into the holes). If it is steel then it is probably a screw dressed down. Scratch it to see if it is steel or lead.

But the current finish on the barrels looks to be rust-bluing just looking at the pictures without seeing it in person. If nothing comes out and that is the only spot, shoot it. It could be a void from the factory (Oh My!). See a previous discussion on this. The worst that will happen is it will get worse and the ribs will need to be re-laid and the barrels reblued, costing a good part of the value of the gun. Keep it well oiled to prevent moisture getting in there if that is the only spot.

J.A. And Channing....yes it has been refinished before I got it. But just so I understand, just because the rib may have come undone in the center couple of inches. That doesn't mean the barrels are separating....is that right. Also do you know of a good gunsmith that might work on these kind of things....hopefully in Texas....also. Are these good, strong barrels???? I mean the make and where they were made, the steel they used etc.. I know you cant evaluate these specific barrels by a photo.

Kirk Merrington is in TX and probably one of the best barrel men in the US. I don't have his number handy but I'm sure someone will chime in.

Shoot it. One spot is nothing to worry about. Go to Lowes. Buy yourself a wallpaper plastic tank for soaking wallpaper (I think they are long enough). Buy a gallon or two of WD40. Fill the tank. Put the barrels in it, top rib up and watch where it bubbles. The bubbles will show you where it is loose and will also coat the inside of the barrels. Pull them out, wipe them off, turn the voids over and let the oil drain. Reuse WD40. Shoot it. Don't spend your money unless you have to.

Just my $0.02. This is what I would do. No liable for my bad advice if others disagree.

The rest of the rib might be fine now but there is always a chance moisture may have been getting in and causing rust and corrosion. No amount of soaking in oil will fix that and if it is the case a strip, clean and relay would be needed. If the gun hasn't been exposed to a lot of moisture it might be fine and you may get away with soldering just the loose section down. Sterlingworth barrels were well made but J. A.'s advice is also worth considering if you don't want to spend a bunch of money on the gun.