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-   -   My first Parker (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7038)

Mike Schleuss 05-06-2012 03:33 AM

My first Parker
 
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Here is some pictures of my first Parker shotgun. I'll include some info and hopefully, with luck, someone will help me properly identify it. I wish I could afford to have the serial # researched, as I know original manufacturer info is available via serial search here, and also hoped to both keep the shotgun, and become a PGCA member as well, but times are ever so tight, and go it soon must, i fear.
A number of odd points were discovered by me in my research of this gun, but sadly, I can't seem to make final sense of my attempts at proper ID of this gun. Help!
So, the barrels are 30", serial number is 35788 and indicates by chart to be an 1883 manufacture date. Grade:here I'm confused as there is no number above the serial number on the watertable, but the serial number DOES have two odd dashes above the 3 and the second 8 of the number, so grade is yet a mystery to me still.Mar. 16, 1875 is below the serial number on the watertable. On the other side of water table top is patd Apr. 11, 1876. beneath this, there is, before the next date shown, either G6 or 66 left of the date Sep.3, 1872.
barrel makings: barrel top states PARKER BROS MAKERS. MERIDEN CONN. TWIST.;barrel underside flat (L)PATD JUNE 25, 1878(top)& PATD APR 11, 1876(bottom) On this side, there is, just next to the lug(forward), a clearly stamped + symbol. (R) barrel flat has T encircled partially by double-half-moon marks. The letter E is clearly visible with 14 also clearly seen. The barrel lug has the letters J.S, above that is 9, then perpendicularly, is an 0, AND a 2.More confusion for me...lol. All serial markings match, barrels are shockingly clean and free of pitting.Take a peak at my pics and any info is appreciated.:)By the way, I have more pictures, the stock is a beautiful walnut and has no pistol grip, and the butt-plate is of a smooth metal and looks to be original. Note the hammers of this gun, I had trouble finding any other 12 gauges with these type. The overall length of the gun is 46 3/4" from barrel- end to bottom of stock-butt.

Bruce Day 05-06-2012 07:43 AM

You have an 0 grade top action hammer gun. Grades progessed from 0, the lowest, to Grade 6, a highly engraved and finely figured gun. Grade 0 was the most commonly made Parker.

Mike Schleuss 05-06-2012 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Day (Post 69211)
You have an 0 grade top action hammer gun. Grades progessed from 0, the lowest, to Grade 6, a highly engraved and finely figured gun. Grade 0 was the most commonly made Parker.

Thanks for your quick reply. I understand that TWIST(not PLAIN TWIST) barrels are limited to just over 5000 units. Can I assume that it's a 2 frame noting 12 gauges did not come in an "O" frame? Any clue as to the other odd markings such as the distinct dashes above the serial number, the + next to the barrel lug, or the G6 or 66? Or the J.S? Were these barrels factory full choke? Finally, noting bores are gorgeous and seem free of pitting, and barrels dent-free, with action and operation tight, and some case colors remaining on frame, serials all matching, what's it's value range?

Dean Romig 05-07-2012 05:56 AM

The frame size is normally stamped on the bottom of the barrel lug along with the gauge. If it isn't there you can measure the exact distance between the firing pins and post the results here. We'll tell you the frame size. The 1-frame and 2-frame were the usual candidates for the 12 gauge hammer guns.

Mike Schleuss 05-07-2012 07:32 PM

firing pin measurement to determine gauge
 
First of all, thanks to both Bruce Day and Dean Romig for your quick replies, and thank you to the PGCA, for this forum venue which allows a want-to-be member like myself to learn and better appreciate such a fine firearms history as "The Parker Gun". I look forward to joining the PGCA as soon as my economic situation improves.
The measurement of the distance from pin-center to pin-center, is 1 1/8". :)
By the way, does everyone fall in love with these guns?? The more I look at it, and research Parker guns, the tougher the idea of parting with it. :crying:

Dean Romig 05-07-2012 08:32 PM

Yours is a 2-frame. The Parker Story lists 1 1/8" as being for either a 1 1/2-frame and a 2-frame but yours is too early to be a 1 1/2-frame.

Brian Stucker 05-07-2012 09:02 PM

New Parker....nice. Hope you enjoy it. Do you plan on hunting? If so, what is your preference(s)? May I suggest RST shells if for ducks. Their phone # is;
570 533 1651, ask for Alex. He hooked me up with both target and hunting loads.
Best, Brian

Mike Schleuss 05-07-2012 09:26 PM

Ever on the learn
 
Thanks again Dean, for your expediency in reply, and for the information. Is it true that a TWIST barrel should be x-ray'd prior to firing originally intended loads? Does knowledge of fire-ability increase it's value?? I so want to fire it, and it generally inspects out very well, and seems to have no mechanical issues. Thank you again and you are much appreciated.

Bruce Day 05-07-2012 10:18 PM

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An x ray will show only a mass of lines, as would be expected. Just look at the gun for seam cracks and obvious bulges or deep dents. All these guns were designed to shoot at least 1 1/8 oz loads at 3 drams, which was the patterning load. Other standard heavy loads were 1 1/4oz at 3 1/4 dram equivalent. A person can choose to shoot lesser loads. I shot a high grade 1883 hammer Parker at a trap shoot in Nebraska with $1500 at stake and was using standard Federal trap loads. Parkers are not delicate little things.

Dean Romig 05-07-2012 11:20 PM

In addition to what Bruce has stated it is always a good and prudent idea to have the barrel wall thickness properly measured. A previous honing or two (or three) can really reduce the wall thickness to unshootable dimensions. If the barrels are good then "Let 'er rip"!


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