Double Trigger conversion
 

Conversions from Single Trigger to Double trigger have been discussed on the board a few times in the past.

The switch can be accomplished on a basic level by just swapping out parts which results in the function of double triggers, but leaves evidence of the former single trigger on the trigger plate.

This is fine for most guns as heavy modification on the outside is not wanted by most owners. However, if you want to leave no evidence of the conversion having been done, you have to do things the hard way...

The pictured gun is a Repro A-1 in the white. I tig welded up anything related to the single trigger. The long trigger slot was filled in with a cut off piece from another trigger out of the parts bin and then welded. Everything was dressed down and polished out leaving the gun ready for double triggers.

Obviously the same applies to original Parker guns as well. Not just repros.


Attachment 68332

Attachment 68333

Attachment 68334

Nice job Brian.

When I had the SST to DT conversion done several years ago to a Repro I once owned, the slot bothered me to the point I ended up selling the gun.

Here's an A-1 Special that, IMO, came up a little short. The end result would have been much better had the owner sought out your services to do it right:

Oh yeah. If you are starting with new metal, there is no reason not to do it right if the plan is established ahead of time.

That pictured gun is a good example of that. The backwards and out of line hinge pin does not help either.

Talk about not helping out . . . How about those two unplugged screw holes under the Y-shaped area of the trigger guard? Good grief, one throws a pile of money into a project with a goal of creating a masterpiece and ends with a result like this?? :banghead:

"It's the itty-bitty details that make the big big difference."

I agree with you guys 100% on this post, it's all in the details. Hinge pin aside, if they put the screws back in the blank holes and case hardened everything to match I think that would have been an acceptable and reversible solution.

Brian,

Great job on the trigger slots! Could you show us what you're doing on the other side for mounting the triggers. I know you can remove the single trigger mechanism easily, but am curious if the machining is already there for mounting the double triggers & associated spring.

I'm also curious what your plans are for the safety toggle, being as the single & double triggers use a different mortice in the stock along with different hardware in including the push rod.

The physical mounting of the triggers is the same on both single and double trigger plates. The mounting of the trigger spring is simply a matter of drilling and tapping a 2-64 hole in the proper place, which I have already done.
I welded up and dressed down the single trigger milling in that area on the back side but have left the milling in the forward areas. No real need to do anything there since it will not be seen and does not effect function of anything.

This particular gun is getting restocked, so the safety mechanism is of no concern. A DT jacket toggle will be inletted into the new stock in the typical fashion.

Thanks Brian!!

Hopefully it's ok to jump in on this thread 6 months late....

I have a couple of quick questions regarding "swapping out parts": What parts are needed and are they readily available? From where? Can any decent gunsmith perform this job if he has the parts? Or do I need to find a Parker guy?

I found a nice repro that I like except for the fact that it has a single trigger. Purchase price obviously will have to include cost of the trigger work if I can't find a double trigger gun I like -- how much would you think this job should cost?

Thanks, Ron

What variety of Repro did you "find" that can't be found with double triggers? There are a bunch of Repros out there.

I’m doing a trade at a local shop. He has a large selection of Parker’s and other doubles. I want a Parker that looks nice, is within my price range, and fits me. The only one I’ve “found” so far that meets those requirements has a single trigger. Just wondering how much it will cost to convert and if I can find someone to do it.

I had wanted to do a double trigger conversion on Uncle Bill's VH 16, but the sears would have to be straightened or replaced. Plus cosmetic work on the safety. I was given the gun by Bill's daughter. She retrieved it and a VH 20 from one of her sons after finding it without stock, floor plate screws, etc. I hope she finds the DHE 28 for me.

The trigger above that Harry shows is a Miller trigger.

A proper conversion from a Miller would require a lot of work to the trigger plate or replacement of the trigger plate entirely.

Regarding conversion from Parker Style SST to DT on Repro or original Parker, there are a number of things to consider and also a few different ways to approach to job. A minimalistic job can be done which would leave the trigger plate unaltered and will physically show evidence of the SST on the outside after the job is done. Or external evidence of this work can be removed entirely. The subject of the safety mechanism and stock head inletting can come into play depending on what the needs of the guns owner are. All these different factors effect the work involved and therefor the price one may expect to pay.

I have heard of some gunsmiths charging as low as $300 for a DT conversion on Parker Repros. from seeing the guns, I know that these are minimalistic jobs where no trigger plate modification is done and parts are simply swapped out or slightly modified. Beyond that, I cannot say for sure what they did inside. I suppose different people may have different ways to approach the problem.

I personally feel that with just the parts value and labor involved, $300 may be on the light side. But that is just how I feel.

Here is an example of a DT conversion that I did on a DHE 12g.

The original framework of the SST was gutted and reused. This was so that the original safety link toggle could be used. The safety toggle needed a block welded onto the end of it to reach the location of the new triggers. The framework also had to be modified in order to install a trigger return spring.
The frame was permanently attached to the trigger plate with the old screw and some tack welds.
The outside of the plate was then modified to remove all evidence of the SST ever having been there. L&R filled in, the long trigger slot filled as well as the two screw holes in the rear.
This frame will be color cased, so the surface work to the trigger pate is of no concern.

The other thing to consider is the stock dimensions as well with a DT conversion. Going to a DT will move the trigger finger forward. This particular gun had it's LOP effected by nearly 5/8".

Attachment 74093

Attachment 74094

Attachment 74095

Attachment 74096

I have gotten use to the Miller trigger on the 16. There were more than a few surprises before I got the correct tension on the tang screws. About a month ago I found it a bad idea to change your mind on what barrel to shoot first. I pushed the safety forward to shoot the right barrel, changed my mind and pulled the safety to the rear for left barrel, decided I was right the first time and pushed the safety forward again to shoot the right barrel first and when I pulled the trigger both barrels let go. I did break the target. That or it entered into some kind of warp.