"New" 10 Gauge
 

I recently bought an 10 gauge hammer gun with 32” twist barrels. The number is 40,966. It is on a 3 frame, locks up tight, has bright barrels with some very minor pitting towards the breech, and looks to be in very good mechanical shape. After reading the poll on smokeless vs. BP, I will use light loads of smokeless after I have it checked out by a gunsmith. There is one small dent on the bottom of one barrel at the muzzle which I would like to have worked on. Snap caps are on the way as this my first 10.

This brings me to my first question, I live in N. California (Bay Area) and would like a recommendation for a gunsmith, which are all too hard to find in this state. I would like to avoid the hassle of mailing this heavyweight.

The major problem I have with this old 10 is that it looks like someone covered the stock and forearm with Linseed oil. I contacted the guy who sold it to me and he said that a gunsmith told him that what it was. It feels a bit sticky to the touch and It looks like whoever painted it also got some particles on the finish. A real second-rate job.

I would like to avoid refinishing the wood and am asking for some ideas as to how to get the oil off or at least get the finish to have a smoother feel. The seller said that it felt sticker when he first got it from an estate sale and I have read that Linseed oil dries by oxidation, not evaporation.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

First thing to try is a good strong solution of Murphy's Oil Soap.

DLH

Destry made an excellent sugestion. If it leaves your stock to flat just reoil with light coats of danish oil or tung oil. I did a lifter 10ga this way and the but stock matched the fore arm perfectly.

That will turn out to be a beautiful gun. I would highly recommend RST loads for it. I use them in my 10 bores and they work great.

Dennis

That is one nice Grade 2. I would mail it up to Keith Kearcher in Oregon for a going over and to take care of the barrel problem, fix the screws, and to clean out the bores. You will be money ahead shipping it to him. He knows how to do everything you need to have done and he will charge a very fair price.

Mighta been my father that coated it with linseed oil. When he's around, nothing that is made out of wood is safe from the linseed oil. I have shovels and hammers that I will never touch again thanks to the linseed oil. You won't any linseed oil at my house.

Straight linseed oil, without The addition of Japan Dryer will not dry well for sure. You can knock down the finish that is on it with 0000 steel wool and you can even be less abrasive by lubricating with linseed or mineral oil while working it. This will work well in dulling down some, and knocking down the finish. Just wipe off the excess when done.

I find that linseed oil (or the linspeed product) works well for a flat/satin "at the wood" finish. This is where the finish is built up and then knocked back down to wood until the pores are filled. In the end, there is no finish on the surface, but instead filled into the wood.

I know most folks hate it but I think a linseed finish is the best for gunstocks. it does take sometime to dry but worth the wait

Ray:

You may very well be right, as I know little of the many stock finishes. I do remember
that the when linseed oil is used, it is of a higher quality than your hardware deck finish and it is, as i remember, often cut with a solvent. This looks like a very unprofessional job as there are a few particles (sawdust?) visible under the finish.

Thank you for taking the time to respond,

Patrick

Patrick,

Congrats on the nice 10 gauge. Like Brian said. 0000 steel wool can
actually polish that old finish off. RST brand shells are a good option to get
things started.


Best regards,

Jeff