No, you make the sliver a generous oversize and concern yourself with making the glue oint perfect. Remember the finished repair is going to be very small and the grain is going in the correct direction.

Got it. I will mock up one and practice before attacking the actual Parker repair.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. I am certain this will be appreciated by many other folks with dinged for end margins thinking of a proper repair.

Getting closer.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61784_600x400.jpg

Parker forend cleaned and ready for grain sealing, nicks filled, finish applied.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61785_500x375.jpg

Checkering to be recut
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61786_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61787_600x400.jpg

Fun.

Cameron there are 2 reasons I use a 45 degree angle. One I can easily get a light source on the iron side of the repair and check fit (bore light works well). With a 45 I can move the sliver back and forth to match figure as best I can. Your wood appears to have no figure but someday you may need to match figure and with a 45 it is very helpful. Not only does a generous sliver help matching figure it also helps you to keep glue off your fingers and helps you to control a precise positioning of the sliver.

Thanks. Any advice on filling in missing wood in the checkering pattern. (View the bottom photo above, right margin of release iron) On SxS of lesser pedigree I use a dab of appropriately colored a AcraGlas. On this Parker?

Also, any thoughts on using oxalic acid to remove some of the darker stains on this wood?
I have read about it but never used it.

Craig, divot cleaned at 45 degree and generous sliver fit to the divot clean-out. Nothing glued just sitting in place in the photo. Am I on the right track with this repair?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61791_600x400.jpg
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61792_600x400.jpg

Cameron you took my advice literally on making the sliver a generous oversize. A fine saw will remove the excess in about 10 minutes. If the glue joint is ready, glue it. If you are using rubber bands to hold the sliver while the glue cures try the rubber bands before you glue. I think you may have to remove some of the excess in order for the rubber bands to help position the sliver.

Craig, I am being quite literal until I am ready to glue. I made the generous sliver from a blank of 1/2" straight grain walnut and I will slice it into a few "slivers" giving me a few spares should I need them.

And I have yet another question. Bet you could see that coming. In gluing in the sliver do I angle it to match the 45 degree as in the photo or do I bevel the mating surface to keep the sliver upright (to the centerline of the forend)? Seems upright is correct to keep the grain direction correct. I am not clear on this aspect.

Glue it as pictured, you may be surprised at how well it matches the forend when it is all shaped and finish sand. Not all blanks are cut the same way at the mills.