Butt pad
 

My SC SBT no. 177xxx came with a crumbled, crusty Silver's Pad which I replaced with a new one. Perfect bore. Some one had stored it in a cheap plastic zippered case which held moisture and it rusted. When I first saw the gun all of the metal parts had turned orange. Luckily the rust came right off with soft rubbing with 4x and light oil. Had to have the barrel latch spring replaced. Beautiful wood, beaver tail forearm which I think is a factory replacement because the color doesn't match the stock very well. Straight grip with a chip out that runs along the lower tang. Patterns high, as it should. Perfect balance and she swings sweet as can be.

Parker SBT pad
 

Looking for advice or a correct pad. I was lucky to pick up a nice early (1918) SBT about a year ago. The fellow I bought it from had replaced the pad himself (poorly) just before selling it. I have been looking for a pad since buying the gun without success. I finally ordered one from Connecticut Shotgun and got it over to my smith. He called today to say it couldn't be fitted. The vent slots were too close to the top and bottom ends. Only an 1/8 " of material would be left after fitting and this he said would not hold up. I called Connecticut and they said they only had this one size available. Is there another source or another brand that would be appropriate for this vintage gun?

Pad
 

The above pad I ordered was a Hawkins which I thought correct.

In 1918, a solid red Silver pad would be more correct, and would not have problems like you experienced.

Orphan Annie wears a Horseshoe Brand pad and a Plexiglas spacer. I think they're period correct...as long as the period is the '50's or '60's :rotf:!

https://i.imgur.com/dMtvDccm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1oXejt4m.jpg

When I bought my SBT 20 plus years ago from a family friend I had no idea about them. I bought the gun $1500 because it was a Parker. It's an early SC and I've shot it a bunch. It was pretty well worn, but the bore is nice and so is the wood. Straight stock. I can't think of anything specifically to look for when buying one. If you find one, unless it is trashed, buy it.

t

I'm on Dean's side of the fence with this one. I guess I am an originality bigot. Refinished guns are ok if they are done properly. I just like all the parts of a Parker gun to be totally Parker. It's a fetish.

I'd say fit, fit, fit. I buy trap guns to shoot, not look at. Although I really do like to look at them. Alterations don't bother me as long as the gun fits me. But that's just me.

Gunsmith for locking lever
 

My first post. I just bought a SBT and shot it the first time today. It's a 1936 gun by the sn and although the wood and metal are nice on the outside the action was very stiff due to not having been cleaned in forever.

I cleaned it up some and took it out this morning. The gun has a release trigger as do my other trapguns. I stopped at the pattern board first and at 30 yards the gun shoots a dense probably 60/40 full choke pattern.

Everything seems to work well. The release lever was about neutral and after 3 rounds is left of center and the action needs to be closed smartly before firing. Does anyone know who would be a good gunsmith to take a look at it? I've had Phillips do work for me in the past and he was first to come to mind.

The other thing that I noticed when cleaning it was that the extractor/ejector screw was loose. Snugged it up and it worked fine to this point. Might be worth a drop of blue locktight?

Any information you oldtimers can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

Bob K., Parker trap guns do not have "trunnions". Some trap guns, such as Berettas and Perazzis, have trunnions, but Ithacas, Foxes and Parkers do not. They have a lug with a circular recess that revolves around a hinge pin. Side play is not usually a problem, but wear to the locking lug surfaces is sometimes a problem. Such a problem is easily fixed by a competent gunsmith, if you can find such a thing.