LPI for G grade
 

I am working on a G grade 16 on an 0 frame. What LPI was used on G grades and where might be the best place to get the checkering tools. Also is there a special border tool that was used and are they still available? thanks for the help.

lpi for G grades can vary from 18 to 22 depending on the gun and the era it was made. Earlier guns are generally finer. Than the later ones. And you will find that the actual spacing on original guns may not truly be an even spacing since the tools were hand made.
There is no tool specifically for doing the proper borders.

Getting checkering tools these days in tough. The common companies (dembart and gunline) are going out of business and getting cutters from them is difficult. Starter sets from them though are readily available through many sources.

If you're referring to the mullered borders, a cutting tool was used originally but a lot of people today are using an electric dremel-like tool, the results of which can easily be distinguished from that done with the cutting tool. I really don't see why someone couldn't make his own mullering cutter. Dave Trevallion made all of his stocking and checkering tools. It just takes some knowhow and a lot of patience.





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I have never heard of an electric dremel being used and quite frankly i would think that anyone who had any respect for their work would be scared as hell to do so. But... anything is possible i suppose.

Mullered borders today can be cut using a combination of a couple commercially available hand tools.

I've seen it on several occasions and I agree it isn't something I like to see.





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i think when Dean says "dremel like" the power checkering tools he is referring to are these types of power checkering tools

https://www.ullmanprecisionproducts....eckering-tools

http://www.sightsinc.com/mmc-rotary-...eckering-tool/


that are run off a Foredoom flex shaft

I haven't seen the electric tool with the concave cutter used for the mullered borders so I can't comment on the ones Rick shows. But I have a couple of pictures of the result of the indiscriminate use of one that I'll post later.





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Here is just one example of the 'electric tool' mullering I make reference to. It is obviously not cut with a manual cutting tool by the way the concave mullering does not go right to the joint of the next border and that the tool was lifted too soon. Also notice some of the mullering was cut at a slight angle to the line it was intended to follow. - Sure, it can be remedied by being re-cut properly, but one would expect it to have been done correctly the first time....


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