Early Parker case colors
 

Gentlemen I have a restoration question that I am sure has been answered many times in the past but in searching the files I have not been able to locate a response.

Today who is doing color case hardening which is closest to the colors found on a very early 1900s vintage Parker.

Lastly would someone be so kind as to post a photo of a high condition turn of last century Parker.

I think you will find that Brad Bachelder's shop is possibly the best at reproducing early Parker Bros. bone/charcoal case colors. Doug Turnbull Restorations does a wonderful job too.

If you were a PGCA Member I would direct you to any number of Parker Pages articles written and photographed by our members. There are some wonderful examples of original case colors on guns that are in better than 95% original condition....

but you're not a member so you will not have received Parker Pages, the 48 page full-color quarterly journal (magazine actually) of the Parker Gun Collectors Association. Think about joining for only $40 annual membership. Members also have access to several other sections of our website, including guns for sale, among others.

Here are a couple of pictures of one of our member's guns which appeared in Parker Pages....

Best Regards, Dean



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Thank you Dean. This is most helpful. I have seen some of Mr. Turnbull's work and while it is attractive I have the impression that they are a bit less subdued than the original colors.

Doug or Brad, as Dean said, would be the best choices for consistent Parker correct colors.

Please keep in mind that simulated colour is only one aspect of the process. Other factors can effect the steel itself and its qualities. For this, and more, I've sworn off re-casing for cosmetic reasons alone. But, if you must have the job done, I prefer Bachelder.

I too have mixed feelings about re-case coloring for cosmetic reasons. I did my first restoration project of an LC Smith 16 gauge Featherweight in 1992. Ohio Color Case Company did a magnificent job of recoloring the receiver but after the gun was completed I was never happy with it. It seemed to have lost it's soul. Now I am considering doing the same to a decent old VH and wonder if I may not have the same feelings. One thing not in question is the worn engraving will get a touch up but I am still up in the air about having the gun re-cased. Thanks to all that have contributed their thoughts and opinions.

In correctly reproducing the colors, I think it is important to properly polish the metal before hardening. This is especially true with lower grades which do not have a lot of engraving covering everything. For example, the gun Dean posted shows this. The high polish is seen through the color. If, on the other hand, your doing maybe a A grade or higher, do don't tend to see the shine because the gun was covered with engraving after being polished. The expert restorers know this and I think its part of the reason their colors look so original.

Thank you Ray on my first restoration project the metal to be case colored was wet polished with 600 grit emery and it did achieve that nice translucent appearance. After it was colored it was coated the case colors with clear lacquer as Dr. Gaddy recommended. I couldn't find the product he recommended so I used Testor model airplane builders lacquer thinned 15 to 1 and achieved a beautiful tough transparent protective coating for the colors. That was over 20 years ago and the colors have not yellowed or flaked off.

I believe Oscar recommended Behlens Clear Spray Lacquer. There may be more than one variety, can't remember which one he liked.

Yes Bill that is the product Dr. Gaddy recommended. He didn't specify a type so I assumed that there was only one. In addition to not being able to find the Behlens product I have always had a problem with spray on finishes but the Testor clear lacquer diluted to the consistency of water flowed on smoothly using an artists camel hair brush. As I remember I gave the receiver 2 coats and as I stated it has provided great abrasion resistance and has not peeled or yellowed.