Frustrated with Repair Work
 

This winter I purchased a Parker Reproduction 28 gauge two barrel set. After using the 28inch barrels for about 75 rounds the insert on the doll's head started to protrude. I could see that the beveling on the dolls head that held it in place was peeling back. Also the screw holding it was beat up. I returned the barrel to the dealer I bought it from at my cost for shipping for repair. After a month or so it was return at no cost. I looked to have a new insert only. Testing it with snap caps it failed again right away. I returned the complete gun again (they paid shipping) and about 7 or 8 weeks later it was returned. This time I could see a new screw, insert and the dolls head seemed to have some work done on it (welding). Now after putting about 200 rounds through it has failed again. This time the when I ejected the shells the insert was lost and it looks like the head of the screw has snapped off. It is going back to the dealer again at my cost for shipping. I am asked if there was a better gunsmith to be used and was told that his was capable of repair it. Of that I am not sure.

The question I have for the group is "can this problem be fixed?" Is the dealer leading me on hoping I just give up on it and his problem goes away? This gun was a $6,000 investment that I can not afford to write off.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Brad Bachelder has a plan where a setscrew is installed that limits the travel of the ejector blades, thus, preventing the ejectors from striking the the little insert plate.

Brad's solution or a complete deactivation of the ejectors are the two best solutions. Replacement of the ejector springs in the forend with much weaker springs is another solution. The cause of the failure in the first place is probably the activating of the ejectors without shells in the barrels to cushion the blow on the plate.

This problem happens on repros and meriden guns. Seems to be most common on the very small frame sizes where the dolls head is not very tall.

The best solution is to notch the kicker shafts and put a set screw in the bottom of the lug (like the extractor guns have). This allows the kickers to stop before striking the stop plate. The plate can be left in. This is the process that ithers have mentioned above.

I had this same problem, attached is the repair that
Has worked well,

Bill Schwartz did repair

If the plate is not destroyed, I would prefer the installation of a large screw that interrupts the ejector travel before it hits the plate.

So glad I only have 12 gauge guns ...

I would like to see a picture of the repair method
Using large screw to stop the ejector travel, seems it might be easier to do???

If you want to see what it looks like, look at any extractor gun. It operates the same way.

So , you would take ejector rods out, cut
A little flat area in each, reinstall, and then drill hole and
Tread screw to new tapped hole, and it sound like permanent end to problem.

Bryan, it's this correct???

Yes. And you woild set the stop point to be before the kickers hit the plate.

If this is Connecticut reproduction then I'm sorry but it's a bad news. It's like trying to fix ferrari that was build in China on Volkswagen rabbit frame. Syzyfowa praca

My problem shown were the .410 barrels from CSMC
They sent me new stop plates and said they were made out of better steel, but after the 2nd one they provided
Bent like aluminum, I gave up and sent the gun to Bill.
Since then I have shot at least 1000 shells through
The barrels at skeet, no problem. Others that have seen the quality of these barrels, remark that they are great, with the exception of the stop plate.

WoW ...

Is CSMC something to avoid ?

( have been lusting over the A10 )

I've never heard of any CSMC guns with inherent problems.





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The whole secret behind well made gun is that it's parts are well fitted and properly hardened. The reason? Gun barrels can't be over harden as a matter effect they need to be flexible to take the force of explosion otherwise they will break, bores can be surface hardened inside to increase wear but core has to be soft, then the look parts got to be hardened for wear too, action is a same story, it has to be soft core to take shock but stiff and wear resistant at the same time, it refers to all gun parts. What that means: Complicated process of manufacturing: 1- machine parts from proper carbon content material ( barrels: some manufacturers have their own secret mix that allow for it to be light and thin and resistant to wear and force - like beretta), parts are machined and left oversize. 2 - harder and temper them. 3 - grind them to fit. But that puts manufacturing process in to a serious slowdown, now only a really big facilities can afford to do it and stand up to demand of their marketing. Beretta, browning, krieghoff, kollar, and passionate gunmakers can afford to do that, process require skilled hands and interuption. What we see on market in recent years is guns ugly of beauty full that are produced without proper hardening procedure and without skill hands, why? Because this way small factory can output huge quantity of gun a month. Huglu, csmc, and many more are machined to almost perfect fit put together, raw engraved or electro ethed, coated confident huge price tag is added to blind customer is applied and then trouble starts: why does it fall a part, why can't it be repaired, why doesn't it shoot right, why wood cracked and factory will not fix it properly, maybe replaced but then it's happened again. My advise: get money back find original, give it to a reputable gunsmith with reference who know the difference between renovation and restoration and you will have working and good looking gun forever and for less or buy gun from one of old and biggest gun makers. That is why csmc is buying all old guns out of the market.

If I needed a new stop plate for a Repro I'd fabricate one using a piece of a 'retired' hand saw blade, which I have a good supply of for making eskimo style ulu knives. That's the toughest steel there is, hard but still flexible and drillable. You'd never bend that stuff in that application.

The issue with these guns is not so much the plate, it is the dovetail cut in the rib extension.

So, the rib extension steel is too soft and the dovetail fails?

Yes Richard, that's what happens.





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The points at the cor ers of the dovetail are pretty thin. And the smaller the frame size, the shorter the dollshead is. So there is less surface to absorb the shock of the kickers hitting the plate.

I can't envision a good cure for that other than the suggested stop screw.

I want to thank everyone who posted idea's on how to fix my problem. Last week I sent the gun to Brad Bachelder for repair. When it comes back (in about six weeks) I will let everyone know how it turned out.

Earlier this year, my 28 Ga Reproduction had the dolls-head extension come loose, and I thought it probably couldn't be fixed, until I read a comment from Brad Bachelder.
Long story short; I sent it to Brad..........he fixed it........I shoot it all the time now, and no more problems.
Here's to Brad!
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Here is my update on having the 28 gauge fixed. (got it back sooner than I thought I would)
Picked up the gun today. Since I live only a couple hours away I was able to go to Brad's business to get it. Brad personally reviewed the work with me and I am very satisfied. Since the fix is to the ejectors on the barrel, and that I have a two barrel set, he inspected the other barrel and said it looked ok but that I should keep an eye on it before it fails. I will probably sent it to him next winter for the fix. He even checked out some other potential problems that can plague a reproduction. At a very reasonable price I have a gun I can use again without fear of failure. A big thanks to Brad!

Please take picture of the screw stop installed and your reactions after you shoot it and if you think the ejector kick out the shells as well, I know his fix is the best

I too am getting 3 28repro barells done and 3 more the next time as I get my shipping case back from Bill
Schwartz

You title this thread, 'Frustrated with Repair Work'.

My Repro has been in the repair shop, for nearly 3 years .....

( am a very 'easy going' sorta fella. Lol )

I can not imagine waiting 3 years for a repair. If you have a gun in a shop that long for a repair, not some fine custom gun job there is a good chance the Smith lacks skill to be working on your Parker. Too many real good quality guys to choose from.
Many good Gun Smiths understandably will have a backlog of work, but a 3 year wait runs up a big red flag to me that something is just not right.

Get your gun out of that shop right now.

If it is within a day's driving time you should go there personally. Give the guy a heads up and tell him when you'll be there, but be firm.





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I hope the smith hasn't sold it... :nono:

Put ATF on notice too if he won't release back to you

Briefly ....
I'm in Australia and it would seem no-one except this particular 'smith has EVEN seen a Parker, let alone worked on one.
'My man' is an ex Brit, who worked in the States for a while and saw more than a few Parkers cross his bench. ( so he says )
He has had more than a few problems of a non firearm nature, since landing in OZ and my gun is certainly a damn cantankerous b**tard .... ( single trigger issue )
Am due to contact him again for an update.

( double post )

A brief follow-up on how the repaired barrel is doing. I used the 28 gauge yesterday at my local gun club and it performed well. no problem with ejecting the hulls. as you can see from the attached photo, the upper barrel is my 28 inch that was repaired and the lower barrel is the 26 inch that was not repaired. The set screw that was added to limit the ejector travel can be seem.

If it was a true flat head screw it would look exactly like an extractor gun.





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I was thinking the same thing, but i would get accused of nit-picking.

We are not trying to emulate extractor barrels. We are concerned with function only. Original stop screws are way too soft for this application. We use a hardened stainless steel screw, it is the only one to hold up to the pounding. the recess allows us to tighten it to maximum torque.

Brad

Humble apologies Brad.:bowdown:




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Not needed,but thanks Dean.

Brad

Is this a frequent problem with Repro 20's? To date I have not encountered this issue.