LC Smith Ideal grade Advice Please
 

Dorothy inherited her grandfather’s beautiful 1914 Ideal grade and everything is in 90%+ original condition.

Problem is… the safety is immovable and the rear trigger is stuck all the way back and the left firing pin is stuck protruding out from the breech face.

I have no experience with the mechanics of a Smith and haven’t even removed the lock plates… Should I? Anything to be careful of?

Chambers both measure exactly 2 7/8” deep and the chokes are Rt. 4” long with muzzle constriction of .028” with the Lt. choke is 5” long with a muzzle constriction of .041”

How common is it that a LC Smith 12 has 2 7/8” chambers??

Your root issue is the trigger being stuck up. In that position, the safety cannot move out of the rearward position (3 position safety). And that barrel will not cock.

Likely the issue is the trigger blade being dirty and gummed up or something.

Thanks Brian - is there anything to be especially careful of in removing the lock plates?
Removing Parker hammer gun lick plates is really simple with only 1 pitfall.





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Ten years after your gun was made they stamped the water table of the barrels
"Chambers'
3
"Inches"
This is when the Long Range Wild Fowl Gun was introduced.
-Brett

I would try to see if you can pry down the rear trigger and see if it will come down so that you can cock the gun. I would not want to try and pull the lock plates when the hammer is uncocked. It could cause wood damage.

Being that this is a Featherweight frame, I would think it to not have long chambers like that.

What a mess Dean

The arms of the cocking rods are visible protruding from the knuckle, and can be used to cock the hammers even with the barrels in place

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...%206%20c-S.jpg

You can't fit a wrench, so use a long screwdriver (for leverage) with a thin blade with a layer of electrical tape. Use the other arm to lever DOWN the opposite arm

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...%204%20e-S.jpg

The R arm is down and the R hammer cocked. You will feel and hear a distinct 'click' and it does take some force. Then cock the L hammer.

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...%204%20f-S.jpg

If you can't lever the cocking arm at all, it's time for a Smith specialist.

Once the hammers are cocked, remove the barrels.
There might be a 'CHAMBER 2 7/8' (not the later football) mark on the flats

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...8%201905-M.jpg

There are disassembly and reassembly instructions on the FAQs, including removing the sideplates.
https://lcsca.clubexpress.com/conten...&club_id=43784

The lifter needs to be down when reattaching the sideplates

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...20marked-M.jpg

and be sure the hammers are cocked to reattach the sideplates AND to reattach the FE

Please let us know how it goes.

Do NOT remove the trigger plate if you've never replaced the trigger plate - angels fear to tread the innards of Smith guns :(

Thanks Soo much Drew!

And Thank You to everyone who have offered suggestions.





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Dean, I'd drop it off with Dan Cullity & Son.

Nice looking LCS.

Dean

There is a tool available specifically for cocking a Smith. I bought one for $19 from someone online. You need one if you are going to use the gun. They are made for one job and do it well. I will see if I can find the address.

The tool can be purchased here, but will not work with the barrels in place
https://lcsca.clubexpress.com/conten...dule_id=481235

A flathead screw driver works fine too. Or the small box end wrench as shown in the previous photos.

I just weighed it today... "Featherweight" is right! She weighs ony 6 3/4 lbs. :shock:





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I’m utterly surprised no one’s mentioned the two most obvious options . The first and more difficult would be to have Mr.Mitchell of LC Smith acclaim talk you through the fix . Or the second and far easier option , make a tomato stake out of it :rotf::rotf::rotf:

Neither option is one I would ever possibly consider….!!





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