Oscars articles are in The double gun journal spring 2003, summer 1997 and Fall 1997.

I can only speak to what I do in rust bluing for plugging the bores. I use 36" lengths of 5/16" threaded rod through the bore with a rubber stopper on each end (with a hole drilled through them) and a washer/nut on each end holding the stoppers in tight. I buy the stoppers from my local Lowes. The hole in the rubber stoppers is drilled also 5/16" so the fit is tight around the rod. But there is enough still there for air to vent. I can always see bubbles coming out when in the water. The amount of water that is allowed in is minimal. I use the Mark Lees Express Blue which is very fast acting. I can do a set of barrels from white metal to finished in 5 hours. So I have no worry about water in the bores causing any issues. When I pull the plugs there is just water droplets in the bores which clean out nicely. However, if you are doing a slow rust process taking many days, I would not recommend allowing any water to sit in the bores.

I personally believe that once anyone uses Mark Lees, they will never go back to anything else. Especially if you are doing a lot of barrels. The results are just fantastic and the working time is so quick.

I can only speak in regards to anything from the point of my own experiences and I would not expect anyone to take it as law.

For etching, you will want to plug with separate stoppers (rubber or wood) that will not allow anything in.

I wonder what Brad uses for a bluing solution?

You need to coat the insides with Lacquer. Then plug your bores for the acid bath. You may not like the results if you don't. I learned this from personal experience. You can remove it with acetone when your are through.

Wayne and Brian, thank you for the information. I was considering doing a lacquer coat on the inside, just was not sure how much of a pain it was to get off. Also wasn't sure if you can get it all off.

Brain, that is a great idea for the rubber plugs. Most likely being a combination of that and lacquer.

Thanks for the recommendation of the express blueing but I am trying to keep this a traditional method. I will be using Pilkingtons solution.

Give him a call and ask ,or maybe he may chime in .

For Damascus barrels, you will need to cut the Pilkington's to 50% strength with water. Using the product at full strength may result in a rough finish as the acid will etch the iron strands.

So I went in for another pass on the barrels and it paid off. The pitting is significantly reduced and I thought it was ready for finishing until I noticed this plastic piece, really don't know what it was, but it was imbedded in my breech and a pick easily removed it. Now remains a large pit which is impossible to file out. Was thinking of sending the barrels our to get micro welded, I came across a welder on these forums. $50 plus shipping, quick and cheap to fill in the void. Or should I just leave it as is?

That pit or hole is a non-issue. Just ignore it.






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