Reloading - How to get started?

[Mills Morrison]

I am thinking about getting into reloading and was wondering where to start. Is there a company that has a kit I can order? I also need low pressure loads for my old Damascus and Twist barrels. Any advice or pointers are appreciated :bowdown:

The high cost of ammo is hurting my ability to buy more guns. :crying:

[Pete Lester]

I would go visit a friend who reloads for some first hand demonstration if possible. There are a number of how to videos on Youtube to watch as well.

I would start with one gauge, probably 12 due to the wide range and easy accessibility of components to pick from. A used single stage MEC, like a 600Jr, will allow you to see the steps involved as slowly as you care to go. Deprime/resize, prime, charge with powder, seat wad, drop shot, start crimp, finish crimp. That is all there is to it.

Reloading recipes abound on the internet, both Alliant and Hogdon have on-line reloading guides with tons of recipes.

It is the hulls you have the most of that will drive the selection of the other components. So decide which brand and type of hull you want or can aquire easily and go forward. I would suggest for the novice reloader start with a premium hull such as AA, STS, or Gold Medal as the brass heads (vs. steel) give fewer problems.

As your experience and confidence grows you can graduate to the cheap hulls and other gauges.

[George M. Purtill]

You can never go wrong with a MEC 600 JR. They have short shell kits so you can load those 2.5 in shells or shorty tens.
Used?? the prices on used MECs on ebay are almost retail.

[John Dallas]

Unless you're into high volume shooting (Trap, Sportring Clays) it may be hard to justify the cost of the loader, scales, bushings, etc. The 600 Jr. is a great loader for low volume stuff, but you'll tlire of it quickly of you start getting into high volume. Any savings will have to assume that your time is worth nothing - high or low volume. Financially, you'd probably be better off getting a job ar Mickey D's and buy new shells.

That being saiid, I just spent a bunch of $$ to upgrade from a Ponsness Warren 800B to an 800+

[Pete Lester]

Unless you're into high volume shooting (Trap, Sportring Clays) it may be hard to justify the cost of the loader, scales, bushings, etc. The 600 Jr. is a great loader for low volume stuff, but you'll tlire of it quickly of you start getting into high volume. Any savings will have to assume that your time is worth nothing - high or low volume. Financially, you'd probably be better off getting a job ar Mickey D's and buy new shells.

That being saiid, I just spent a bunch of $$ to upgrade from a Ponsness Warren 800B to an 800+

In 12 ga savings is marginal. But significant savings can be had in other gauges, the 2 7/8" 10 ga in particular. Shooting just over 1500 shells since 2010 at crows alone has resulted in over $1300 of savings for me compared to factory loads.

The benefits of reloading are numerous, its an enjoyable past time by itself. It allows one to shoot short loads and low pressure loads for use in old guns. It makes it easy to shoot loads not readily available such as 7/8 and 3/4 ounce 12 gauge, which are easy on the gun, shoulder and wallet.
Much more flexibility and savings when it comes to non-toxic shot friendly to old guns too.

Reloading is way more enjoyable than work at Micky D's :)

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks for all of the responses. This is mainly for my Damascus barreled guns and particularly the 10 gauges. 10 gauge RST is not cheap and I enjoy shooting the 10 gauge.

[Frank Cronin]

Thanks for all of the responses. This is mainly for my Damascus barreled guns and particularly the 10 gauges. 10 gauge RST is not cheap and I enjoy shooting the 10 gauge.

You can get the Mec Sizemaster for 10 gauge. You will need to order with this the short 10 kit (3 1/2 to 2 7/8) sold separately. It comes with a 2 oz shot charge bar so you will need to order the 1 1/4 oz. You should also get some extra powder bushings since it only comes with three when you buy it.

I bought the Mec Jig fixture mounted to an approx 18x18" piece of scrap plywood as a base then secured to the reloader. I did this for my 12 as well. I don't have a lot of space to permanently mount multiple reloaders. This way I can move which ever reloader to the work bench and fastened with C clamps or even on the kitchen table so I can watch football while I reload:whistle:

Pete has a video how to shorten 3 1/2 Federals to 2 7/8. I'm sure he will chime in the link.

And make sure you get a good digital scale. You are going to need to weigh the powder charge since the bushings throw a lighter charge than the bushing chart states.

Here is a link how the Sizemaster works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI5BKdSDRbE

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks StubTwist

[Jerry Harlow]

The adjustable charge bars are a bargain because one bar will do everything you need. Of course that means having a powder scale to make sure you drop the correct amount, but one needs to do that anyway.

Secondly, you need a $10 food scale from China-mart to make sure you are dropping 1.25 ounces instead of 1.125 or 1.375. It works well in dialing in the right amount of shot.

Every different size shot drops a different charge weight from the same bushing or setting on the adjustable bar, so the adjustable bar lets you dial it in.

[Mills Morrison]

All of the posts are very helpful. As of 5 minutes ago, I am now the proud owner of a MEC Jr. 12 gauge reloader off Ebay. I decided to start out with a 12 gauge and then keep my eye out for a good used 10 gauge one.

[Pete Lester]

The adjustable charge bars are a bargain because one bar will do everything you need. Of course that means having a powder scale to make sure you drop the correct amount, but one needs to do that anyway.

Secondly, you need a $10 food scale from China-mart to make sure you are dropping 1.25 ounces instead of 1.125 or 1.375. It works well in dialing in the right amount of shot.

Every different size shot drops a different charge weight from the same bushing or setting on the adjustable bar, so the adjustable bar lets you dial it in.

I believe it is best for the beginning reloader to learn the basics and simply use the standard MEC bars and bushings. Shotguns are not like rifles where accuracy and pressures are changed by incredibly small changes. A grain or two less of powder and a 1/16 of an ounce less of shot is immaterial when it comes to shotgunning. Getting good crimps and reliable safe loads is goal #1. As one becomes comfortable and proficient with the process one can choose to focus on the finer details of shotgun reloading. It is a learning process but the novice reloader will never go wrong using the MEC bars, bushings and follow the information in their bushing chart.

[Pete Lester]

All of the posts are very helpful. As of 5 minutes ago, I am now the proud owner of a MEC Jr. 12 gauge reloader off Ebay. I decided to start out with a 12 gauge and then keep my eye out for a good used 10 gauge one.

Congrats and welcome to the fold. I am sure you are anxious, do some reading on reloading until it arrives. Ask questions any time. You will find creating your own shells rewarding, I am sure of it.

[Jerry Harlow]

I believe it is best for the beginning reloader to learn the basics and simply use the standard MEC bars and bushings. Shotguns are not like rifles where accuracy and pressures are changed by incredibly small changes. A grain or two less of powder and a 1/16 of an ounce less of shot is immaterial when it comes to shotgunning. Getting good crimps and reliable safe loads is goal #1. As one becomes comfortable and proficient with the process one can choose to focus on the finer details of shotgun reloading. It is a learning process but the novice reloader will never go wrong using the MEC bars, bushings and follow the information in their bushing chart.

Pete and Mills,

My comments about an adjustable charge bar, scales, and cheap scale to measure the shot payloads were based upon the thread indicating we were talking about reloading the short ten, as it was indicated the expensiveness of RST 10 loads. I would not load for the short 10 without making sure everything was correct, since we were talking about composite barreled 10 GA Parkers in most cases.

I agree if we are talking about producing lots of 12 GA target loads to learn how to do it, you can get by with a fixed shot charge bar and the three bushings that usually come with the loader. That is what the thread is about now since a purchase of a loader has been made. As noted, the charges are usually light on both ends, with the standard 1 1/8 oz. bar dropping about 1 1/16 for me, and the powder bushings being up to a couple of grains light as well.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks J. A. and J. B. Just to clear up, we are talking about composite barrels and mixing shot equivalent to RST.

I am now starting out with a 12 gauge reloader with an eye to getting a 10 gauge one when I find one. I take it a 12 gauge is a little better for beginners and those of us who had trouble passing science and math.

[Peter Clark]

Thanks J. A. and J. B. Just to clear up, we are talking about composite barrels and mixing shot equivalent to RST.

I am now starting out with a 12 gauge reloader with an eye to getting a 10 gauge one when I find one. I take it a 12 gauge is a little better for beginners and those of us who had trouble passing science and math.

Mills,
I think you will find that besides saving some money, there is a great deal of satisfaction in crafting your own ammo. I find it a relaxing pastime and when you shoot stuff like bismuth or nice shot, it is certainly cheaper than buying it already loaded. I have been loading since paper shells were the norm and a Pacific DL50 loader with Alcan wads was the standard.
I have learned that lighter loads work just great, save even more $ and are easier on decrepit and artificially repaired shoulders. If you have any questions just send me a note and I will be glad to advise. However I do not load steel and don't plan to.
Peter C.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Duckman. Yes, I have heard reloading is a relaxing pastime and I need a relaxing pastime right now that costs less money. I am certainly not planning on shooting steel shot.

I will probably be circling back to this group once the reloader is here and I need to find out about all the other stuff I need to get started.

There are not many people in Savannah into classic side by sides and the ones who are look at you like you're crazy when you say you shoot with Damascus barrels.

[Mills Morrison]

I believe Michael McIntosh has a chapter on the advantages of lighter loads in one of his books. I am a real fan of lighter loads myself

[charlie cleveland]

mills you gonna love reloading especially the short ten...try finding a buckshot load for the ten or even a punkin ball...only your imagination is the limit.. charlie

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Charlie. I am looking forward to trying it out

[Paul Harm]

You don't have to have a different reloaded for the 10. It's not all that much trouble to change the 600jr from 12 to 10. All you need to order is the larger ring that goes on the deprimpe station, a different start crimp, and the final crimp station. For short 10s get the short shell kit. All this can be ordered from Pression Reloading cheaper than from Mec. If it's not in their catalog they can still get it. Also, you should have a scale for weighing powder and shot and a $30 digital scale will do that quicker than a balance beam scale.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Paul. Money saving tips are always appreciated

[Paul Harm]

For the 10 you may also want the metal rod used to prime - it's bigger in diamiter and will open up the old crimp on the fired shell.

[Paul Harm]

Couple of other thoughts - if your reloader comes with a red plastic/rubber handle get the wooden one. It's longer will be much easier to pull. Just cut the old one off and throw it away. Mec charge bars come in two different styles - the 300 or 500 series. The 300 is for single stage presses and what you want. If it were me I'd spend the extra money and buy the adjustable bar - it'll save you money in the long run and JMHO, much easier to use if changing from 10 to 12 on the same press. Plus, if you have a ditigal scale [ and you really should have some sort of means to measure powder weights to be safe ] you can make sure you're throwing exactly what you want, be it shot or powder. Sometimes just a little less or more shot will give you a nice crimp. Can't do that with the bar and bushing set-up. If you do get one make sure it's for the single stage press [ 600jr]. www.precisionreloading.com has everything you need at what I believe the best prices. One time I ordered through them something that wasn't in their catalog [ a Mec part ] that was shipped from Mec but billed to them and it was cheaper than what Mec wanted for it.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Paul. That is very helpful.

[Mills Morrison]

Here is what I bought. Hope the link works.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170915903942&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1120

[Pete Lester]

Mills have you decided upon the recipes you want to try?

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Once you do you may want to get the primers, powder, wad and size shot you want to load so you are ready to go when it arrives. You will also need a bar for 1 and or 7/8 ounce as it comes with a 1 1/8 ounce bar. Be aware bars for single stage loaders, type 302, are different than the bars for MEC progressive reloaders, type 502. You'll also want a range of powder bushings, 27 through 38 will load just about anything in a 12ga.

Looking at the description you also need to be aware that the VersaMec and 600Jr are two separate models. One of the major differences is the type of wad guide they use, eventually you will have to replace a wad guide because the plastic fingers eventually break from fatigue. Good to have a spare hanging around. However in my opinion the older VersaMec is superior. It uses metal in places where the 600Jr uses plastic. If you need any parts from MEC you will need to be sure of the model you have.

http://www.mecreloaders.com/

This is not as daunting as it may seem. You are going to enjoy this when you get the hang of it.

[Richard Flanders]

If you decide to upgrade for a bit more volume, my smoothest and very best MEC press is an older ALL-METAL 650. It is much smoother and more reliable than the newer ones. It never malfunctions. I love it and got it from a friend as a gift. It really is the best of my 5 MEC presses. You can get them off ebay and whatever parts you might need are still available. I use the adjustable charge bars on all my presses.

[Larry Frey]

Mills,
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned yet but I recently began reloading and it wasn't long before I realized I needed to resize the shells for guns with tight chambers. I purchased a MEC Super Sizer from Cabelas for around $100.00. Good luck, I think you are really going to enjoy reloading.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Richard and Double Play

[Paul Harm]

Mills, looks like you got one of the newer ones which is good. If you go to 10ga you'll need a star crimp, shell holder, resize ring, wad guide, reprime punch, and a cam crimp assy. All that should be under $50 where as if you ordered the complete die set it would be over a $100. The only thing to look out for is that Mec changed things from around 82 ta 85, and then after 85. What to watch for when ordering parts is the wad guide and star crimp. I like the old star crimp made from metal, but it's harder to adjust. It's probably better when ordering to get the new plastic one WITH the metal screw and lock nut. For wad guides - if you have two metal rings that screw togeather with a plastic insert [ the old style ] it will cost another $20 to change to 10ga. Mec sells a converision kit so you can go to the newer plastic wad guide. If I remember correctly Mec wanted $22 for the old style 10ga wad guide but only $12 for the kit. Precision Reloading wanted $8 for the kit. Sometimes I go to Mecs web site, get the part numbers I want, then call Precision and order the parts. And you won't need a Mec super sizer with a 600jr - they resize the shells. A Mec 650 doesn't resize, and then you may want one.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Paul. I am thinking of just calling Precision Reloading, telling them what I have and what I need and then buy what they suggest. I will mention the suggestions here.

[Paul Harm]

As JB said, you have a Versamec. I didn't notice that. Everything is steel which is nice. The little red fingers in the wad guide only cost about 2.50. If you ever need one replaced and you're gonna go to 10ga at some point you'd be better off ordering the kit to go to plastic and get 12ga and 10ga wad guides. I have two 761 Grabbers [ one I convered to 10ga without the resizer working ], three 650's, and three old 600jrs. Just went to Mecs web site and saw charge bars are $20+ and bushings are $2+. For under $40 you can buy a adjustable charge bar and never worry again about buying another bar or bushings. When ever you want to change a setting you just turn a dial, not wait to get something in the mail. The adj. bar allows an exact powder charge to be thrown unlike a bushing that may or may just get you close. My bars now have the inspection hole plugged so they'll throw [ without a bushing ] 94grs of black powder - about 3 1/3 drams - a good stout load with 1 or 1 1/8oz of shot. Back before I got adj. bars I bought two 46A bushings for BP. One was cut off so one throws 75grs and the other 84grs. That's about the only time I still use a bar and bushings.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Paul. This is all very helpful

[Pete Lester]

Mills, check out the wad guide fingers on the machine you bought before you do anything to it. The older Versamec's came with spring steel fingers (wad guide), that is no longer available from MEC and it is FAR superior to either style of the plastic fingers wad guide.

The newer style (black nylon) that comes with the 600JR is more rugged than the red plastic fingers that are held inside a screw together chrome holder which is an older style sometimes found on the Versamec.

Also, the deprime station on the Versamec and 600JR resizes the brass/steel part of the hull when you deprime, you should not need a separate resizer called the MEC Super Sizer. Be sure this is properly adjusted so that the resizing ring goes all the way to the metal rim of the hull. This is a simple adjustment that I can explain later when you are looking at the machine.

Mills, you have been getting a lot of stuff thrown at you fast, but the process is really quite simple. Another great thing about MEC, when you call their customer service you get a real person who knows the machines and they will take the time to walk you through anything that you don't understand or might not be working correctly. They do this for new and used machines alike, they are great.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks J B. I am probably going to wait until I get the reloader in hand and then see what I need.

[Paul Harm]

The nice thing about a singe stage reloaded is you can't screw up too bad - other than spilling shot or powder, or forgetting a primer or powder - or - well you get it - it's all happened to all of us at one time or another. About the biggest problem people have is trying to put too much in the shell and getting a bad crimp. In a 12ga you'll need about 7/16" from the top of the shell to the shot in it. It may look like the shot is way down in there, but it takes more than people imagine. The shell has to double back over and still have enough to close up the center. Once you get it working with a good crimp, look down in and see far far it is before you do any crimps.

[Richard Flanders]

That press looks like it will be usable. Look up inside the metal dies to check for rust that can scratch the cases and cause premature case splitting. You can take a bronze shotgun brush and clean them out inside if there is light corrosion. I would also suggest that you don't ever get the large shot/powder bottles that MEC offers. Others may disagree but I find them very clumsy to use. You can gladly have the couple that I have on the shelf if you ever need them. Do get the replacement wooden handle too; that is very good advice as those plastic handles lead to much more hand fatigue.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Paul. The more idiot proof it is the better.

Thanks Richard. It indicates it comes with accessories and I am hoping to be pleasantly surprised about how much is included.

I may go out to Bass Pro today and look in their reloading section and see what is offered.

[John Dallas]

Bass Pro prices for components are hiigh, but that may be your only choice to get started quickly. Check with your local gun club. Often, they put in quantity orders and are able to get things at a much better price

[Tom Carter]

Check Graf and Son in Mexico, Missouri. Cheers, Tom

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Big D and Tom. Somehow that does not surprise me about Bass Pro. It looks like this weekend is about to escape from me anyway.

[wayne goerres]

I have been buying all my components from precision reloading. they are knolagable freindly and have very fair prices. Be warned , you will probably have to buy powder and primers localey because of the hazmat fee (27.50)If you can aford to buy in bulk to obsorb the fee than you will be alright.

[Mills Morrison]

Thanks Wayne. Someone else recommended Precision Reloading. I can find a local dealer for the powder and primers.