Trojan Restoration Questions, Part II

[Kyle Lambright]

OK guys, my Parker project is slowly progressing. Maybe I should have titled these threads "Parker refinish" because I'm now thinking "restoration' sounds a little ambitious. At any rate I'm making some progress.
I've gone through the stripping, sanding, wet sanding, and staining processes. I'm now down to my real achilles heal, the final finish. I'm reasonably happy with how things look now so my ultimate question is: how many coats of finish do I need on top of what I have now? If I add a couple of coats of finish for protection, what is the best way to knock the shine down a notch or two if I think it gets too shiney?
FYI: I filled the grain with Permalyn filler. I also have the Permlyn finish. After working with the filler, I've considered using it as the final coat.
Thanks so much for the input. Maybe I will post pictures when this is complete because I am positive that everyone on this site is dying to see another old, rehabbed Trojan. :rotf:
Thanks again - Kyle

[Brian Dudley]

You should have been able to get away without staining the stock. Unless you were trying to darken it to match the forend.

If you are using Permalyn sealer. Just keep applying it with a brush letting it soak in and then wiping off the excess. I am not sure how many coats you put on already. It will start to build and fill the grain. You can also actually sand the stock with the wet sealer on it. Use very fine wet sandpaper for this. It is a bit messy, but it does help fill the grain.

What do you intend to use for a final finish?

You should hand apply the finish and then wipe back the excess and continue to do this until the grain is filled. You can also wetsand back the finish with water ever couple of coats. When using Truoil, I have found that wetsanding every 4 coats or so works well and it takes 12 coats or so to fully fill and get a smooth finish.

A fully filled and smooth finish is the halmark of a good stock. But some visable grain can be ok if it is a more antique look that you are going for.

It helps to do your coats one on top of the other lets say every few hours or whenever the stock can be handled. That way the coats bond together well. Or you can lightly steel wool between coats.

If you apply the finish straight and let it cure, you will be left with a gloss finish, if you wipe it back when still wet you will be left with a satin to semi-gloss finish. I have foudn that wiping back works best. The hardest part is getting the finish to not look streaky.

You can also buff down a gloss finish with rottenstone or that birchwood casey conditioner works well.

Basically, it is hard to screw up. It just takes a lot of time to get a good finish. I think it is best summed up by saying that when you think you might be done, put a few more coats on.

[Kyle Lambright]

Thanks for the reply, Brian. I think I have wet sanded it 6 or 7 times using the Permalyn sealer to fill the grain (2 times each with 320, 400, and 600). It's pretty smooth. I added the Galazan Pre-64 stain to get a slightly more red tint. It didn't change the color much. I'm pleased with it.
I'm leaning towards using the Permalyn sealer or Permalyn finish for the final finish since I have some on hand. I've heard the sealer is basically just a less viscous version of the finish (I'm not sure if that is true or not).
It sounds like I should use a couple of drops at a time and evenly distribute a thin layer over the stock. Maybe rub it in as thin as possible? I'll repeat for a few coats and see how it turns out. I appreciate the input. I'll re-read your post before I get started on the finish next week. I'm sure I will put your "hard to screw it up" theory to the test with these unskilled hands!
Thanks again - Kyle

[Brian Dudley]

You are correct about the comarison of the permalyn finish vs. sealer. However, even though it is thicker then the sealer, it is still pretty thin and prone to running if you have too much. The finish is good. I have just found that it does not build as quick as truoil and some others. I would recommend putting it on pretty heavy, let it sit for a few mins. and then wiping it off with papertowel. This will leave thin deposits each time and also a nice satin finish. You will see what I mean.

[GEORGE STAEHLING JR]

I HAVE A PARKER SER.88863 THAT I WISH TO HAVE COMPLETLY RESTORED TO ORIGINAL IT IS IN VERY USED CONDITION AND BUTT PLATE MISSING. NEED RECOMENDATIONS

[Brian Dudley]

Gorge,
Send me an email with details on your Parker and the work you need done.
I tried to pm you, but it was not an option on your profile. bmdgunstocks@yahoo.com