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ron belanger
02-06-2012, 04:13 PM
:rolleyes:Serious pitting in spots after de-rusting...not sure if this should be gone forward with or not. Anyways, here are some pics of the Trojan after reassembly. Mind you, I didn't touch the side case screws nor disassemble any of the innards except the sears and associated parts to remove the stock. Someone else in history buggered these screws...

ron belanger
02-06-2012, 04:18 PM
More of the Trojan.

ron belanger
02-06-2012, 04:23 PM
Yet more of the Trojan...

John Campbell
02-06-2012, 05:59 PM
Ron:
Go ahead and enjoy the resto of this one. If you saw the GH flogger that I'm working on now, you'd consider this Trojan an absolute gem!

ron belanger
02-06-2012, 07:12 PM
Ron:
Go ahead and enjoy the resto of this one. If you saw the GH flogger that I'm working on now, you'd consider this Trojan an absolute gem!

:)

That's good news!

Love to see what you're working on too!

Brian Dudley
02-06-2012, 10:33 PM
Yeah, pretty pitted up, but not too far gone. Some draw filing and polishing would clean up those barrels pretty nice. And fresh bluing will work wonders. In regards to the action screws. Only that one is real bad. However, Galazan sells the Parker receiver screw sets (Brownells has the same kit too). They come with those screws. They need the heads rounded over and polished, but it is an easy source for all the screws.

ron belanger
02-07-2012, 05:20 PM
Yeah, pretty pitted up, but not too far gone. Some draw filing and polishing would clean up those barrels pretty nice. And fresh bluing will work wonders. In regards to the action screws. Only that one is real bad. However, Galazan sells the Parker receiver screw sets (Brownells has the same kit too). They come with those screws. They need the heads rounded over and polished, but it is an easy source for all the screws.

Thanks! May I ask what happens when one of those screws is removed?
Is it a case where you can just unscrew one at a time and replace with a new one? Or...does some part inside shift and disable the action when removed?

Just curious...ain't no gunsmith here....:whistle:

Bill Murphy
02-07-2012, 06:18 PM
That's the best Parker gunsmithing question ever asked. Who will answer it?

Chuck Heald
02-07-2012, 06:30 PM
Ron,
I forget the disassembly of a Parker as it's been so long since I did it. I do have one apart that has been apart for years. But there's a tutorial somewhere on this site about disassembly.

I'd recommend you go forward. Little harm can be done to this gun.

Ring the barrels to see if they've delaminated.
Closely examine the rib solder line for failure with magnification and good light
(looks like you may have some solder "touch up" to do at the muzzle as a minimum)
Examine the bore and chambers for pitting that would make the gun unsafe (damn few get this bad)
Check the barrels for being on face without the forend on.
Fix any of the above problems before proceeding (espcially off face problems).
Now for the fun...
Have the frame annealed first
reassemble the toplever and locking mechanism.
assemble the barrels on the action before beginning filing of the barrels.
take detailed pics of the engraving (not a biggie here with a Trojan)
draw file all the pitting out of the barrel outside, checking wall thickness as you go.
assemble the forend iron on the barrels/frame before the next part
Draw file all the frame/forend iron pits
polish as an assembly.

If you look at these guns, all the flats are flat and corners are supposed to be fairly sharp. Refer to pics on the web of good original examples. Look at the polishing lines for direction of polishing and grits to use. Barrels typically are taken to a 400 grit (wet/dry paper) finish, same with the frames. KEEP THE CORNERS SHARP (as they were originally). The idea of assembling the barrels and forend iron for filing and polishing is to keep the corners from rolling during polishing which ends up looking amateurish.

I'm sure I forgot some things but that should get the thread rolling on what needs to be done

John Campbell
02-07-2012, 08:05 PM
Ron:
As other say, do yourself a favour and find/study the proper disassembly procedure for a Parker. Warning... it is NOT as easy as a standard boxlock to take down. In fact, it's a royal pain in the arse. If you consider yourself "not a gunsmith," it might be worth $50 to have a good gunsmith take your gun to bits for you.

Regards the "screws"... They should probably be soaked in Kroil for days before any attempt is made to move them. And only then if the slots have been thoroughly cleaned out first, and perfectly fitting turnscrews used. These guns are almost always clogged with rust and old grease. And a buggered screw is one BIG problem.

Best to go slowly... and learn some gunsmithing technique as you go along. Read books and study much... then apply the knowledge with care.

Best, Kensal

Brian Dudley
02-08-2012, 09:35 AM
The only screw you cannot just remove is the large hammer screw. The one next to it is just a lock screw. The fron one is for the cocking cam axle. Both those two smaller ones can be taken out without any tension.

Some penetrant oil might be a good idea before attempting to remove them though. These can be sticky sometimes and I have seen some pretty buggard up ones. Not long ago, I had to use a Grabbit to get one of the front screws out of my P grade.

Dean Romig
02-08-2012, 10:31 AM
Some of us were lucky enough to be at Pintail Point when Doug Turnbull spent about an hour showing us the proper procedure for the complete disassembly of a Parker hammerless shotgun... and then reverse the procedure and put it all back together again.

I learned when I was a kid of thirteen that you can't just "willy-nilly" take screws out of a Parker. That was 1961 and cost me $20 at the gunsmith.

John Campbell
02-08-2012, 10:39 AM
Chilled:
I'm sure it was a fascinating experience.

Best, Kensal

Chuck Heald
02-08-2012, 11:14 AM
Parkers are sort of the "coo-coo clock" of boxlocks.

ron belanger
02-08-2012, 12:39 PM
Okay then...I'm not "cuckoo" enough to attempt to remove any more than I already did when taking out the sears and associated tidbits for removing the stock. On another note, putting the stock back on went fairly well even though I needed help with the sears as I couldn't put the downward pressure on the sears and line up the pin with only 2 hands...needed someone to tap the pin while I held them lined up with the pin hole...was very pleased when the Trojan was back to operating condition after this minor operation was completed.

As Benny Hill used to say..."Learning all ze time!"

charlie cleveland
02-08-2012, 08:46 PM
hello benny..... charlie