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Mark Ouellette
09-25-2011, 07:11 PM
I posted this in the general information section to help a member. I thought I'd post it here to help others.

Parker Disassembly

Removing the stock isn't all that difficult, but it does require a few tools and a LOT of care. The most important things you will need are a screw driver or three that actually FIT the different sized screws, a non-marring drift pin to drive out the sear pin, and a non-marring hammer (plastic-faced, etc).

1. The first step is to dry fire the gun on snap caps, remove the fore end (so as not to re-cock the hammers), and then remove the barrels.

2. Next is to remove the screw in the trigger guard (by the serial #) and gently lift the guard from it's inletted bed (pushing forward on the guard may help),

3. then unscrew the guard from the trigger plate by revolving the whole guard around the front stud about 4-5 turns.

4. Under the trigger guard you will find another screw head which you can remove next (the tip (other end) of this screw is visible on the top tang by the safety).

5. Next, you can remove the large screw under the top lever. This requires a different size screw driver.

6. Next, remove the three screws in the trigger plate. (Note: it may be easier to remove these screws if you only break each screw loose sequentially, a little at a time. If you completely loosen them one at a time, the last screw may be under an uneven strain and be more difficult to break loose).

7. After these screws are out you turn the receiver over and use a wooden dowel, or a non-marring soft-metal drift inserted into the rear of the slot in the water table and tap gently to drive the trigger plate from the bottom of the frame.

8. At this point the stock will become very loose and floppy on the receiver, but you CANNOT remove it yet! Be very careful as the trigger plate comes out, making sure that the stock doesn't jump around and break some of the wood in the fragile head portion. Also be sure to catch the cocking slide which rides just inside the trigger plate**.

9. Once the trigger plate is off, the final step is to remove the sears. If you try to remove the stock without removing the sears, you WILL break the stock. This is the reason you let the hammers down before you even began. Pay careful attention to how the sears are oriented (draw a picture if you have a poor memory).

10. The sear pin is visible on either side of the outside of the frame at the lower rear corner. Using a drift slightly smaller than the sear pin, carefully drive it out the other side of the receiver, removing each sear as it is cleared by the pin.

11. You may now remove the stock. There will be a few parts left in the stock (safety mechanism, automatic safety rod, main screw ferrule) but it is not necessary to remove these for normal cleaning.

12. You can clean the receiver out with your favorite gun solvent, then blow the crud out with compressed air.

13. After it is clean to your satisfaction, spray the inside with something like RemOil, wipe most of it out, and add a drop of gun oil to each joint between moving parts.

14. While you're at it, now would be a great time to add a coat of sealer (like Tru-Oil) to the inletting in the head of the stock, to keep gun oil from ruining the wood. Don't let it collect in puddles anywhere, because the fit between wood and metal is a close tolerance.

15. Re-assembly is the reverse of the above, except that you must make sure to engage the safety slide on the tang with the safety lever in the stock as you slide the receiver back into the stock. This is a little tricky, so make sure it works properly before continuing.

16. The sears go back in next, the pin is driven through, and the cocking slide is put in place to engage the cocking hook and hammer notches,

17. then the trigger plate is put into place and tapped with a plastic-faced, etc. hammer until it is fully seated.

18. After that, it is just a matter of replacing screws.

Do all work with the receiver firmly supported in a vise with soft jaws. To not do so is to invite ruined screw heads, broken inletting, etc. There are a few operations (like removing the sear pin) that will be easier out of the vise, but be very careful! For screw drivers, you need the hollow-ground tipped ones, and will likely have to shape the tips with a file a little to get proper fit in the slots."


** In addition to the cocking slide, keep an eye out for the trip spring and pin which may also leap out. For identification of these parts see the "Technical Information" section of this BBS. Cocking Slide is #13 and the trip spring and pin #20 (aka: Paker Poker - what you push to return the top lever for breakdown storage of the gun).

charlie cleveland
09-25-2011, 09:30 PM
thanks for the good info...wish ida read this before i took the gun my friend is working on to him... charlie

Gary Cripps
09-25-2011, 09:45 PM
Thank you for the disassembly instructions. Are they the same for a Reproduction 20 ga. with a single trigger?
I have one where both barrels will fire only with the selector set for the left barrel firing first. With the selector set for the right barrel first, only the right barrel fires. Is this a cleaning issue or a larger problem? If not a cleaning problem is there anyone in Wisconsin who could do a repair?
Thanks
Gary

Mark Ouellette
09-25-2011, 10:02 PM
Gary,

I never disassembled a Parker Repro so I cannot give you a good answer. Since it is a faithful reproduction of a Parker it should be the same. Someone else will soon respond...

For your single trigger, try a good cleaning first. If that doesn't cure the problem send it to Mark Beasland of Mark's Born Again Bird Guns. Email: mark@mbabllc.com ~ (866) 622-2486 http://www.mbabllc.com
Mark is in Wisconson but I do not know which town.

Mark

John Campbell
09-29-2011, 07:52 PM
Big Friend:
Excellent steps to take down a Parker hammerless... but allow me to add an important tip:

In order to prevent the stock from banging around and chipping itself as the bottom plate and sears come out, I hold it securely in place with a bungee cord wrapped between the standing breech and buttplate (surgical tubing works too). Once you've got the sears out, remove the bungee and stock. It works for me.

Best, Kensal

Mark Ouellette
09-29-2011, 09:28 PM
Kensel,

Thank you. That is a good tip. It will help if someday when I have butterfingers. :)

I have a question for you since you are very well versed in Parker gunsmithing. As a new comer to this forum wouldn't it have be kind of you to provide Charlie, a long time member, detailed guidance rather than telling him to go read a book?

When I join a new club I try to make friends and then in turn, give a freindly welcome to newcomers.

Mark

John Campbell
09-29-2011, 10:41 PM
Mark:
Your thought is most prudent. And your generosity is amply proven. However, I have found that many neophytes are best self-educated by obtaining their own information, following professional instructions, and having a book to refer to in the future. I was there once, and did the same. That was long before the internet however. Still, I'm old fashioned enough to encourage students to do their own research and learn from that. I'm always willing to offer insights however.

Don't get me wrong. I seriously considered giving Charlie the full ticket (as you so generously did)... but he seemed so new to the process that I felt a professional step-by-step would serve him and his new passion a bit better. Not to mention the screw slots of his Parker.

Best, Kensal

Brian Dudley
10-12-2011, 01:47 PM
What is the best way to remove the automatic saftey pushrod and main screw ferrule?
I have some I want to take out and they do not seem to want to budge. Can see what holds the pushrod in. It moves back and forth, but won't come out the front.

John Campbell
10-12-2011, 09:21 PM
Dudley:
One must learn in steps, I suppose. To get the reset rod out, the ferrule must come out first. This is because it intersects a flat on the rod which holds the rod in place. Remove the ferrule, and the rod will slide out forward (dirt permitting).

But... to remove the ferrule, you must grind a screwdriver to fit the notches in its top precisely. It cannot be too wide or you will turn up wood. It cannot be a sloppy fit in the notches or it will bugger them.

Chances are the ferrule will only turn up so far as the threads will carry it -- about 1/4 inch. Then it will have to be tapped out from below with a small punch.

With the ferrule out, the rod should come out toward the muzzle of the gun. Be careful to reinsert it the same way. Some are tapered on the transfer bar side, so that end must be kept to the butt.

Otherwise, it's not a complicated operation.

Best, Kensal

Dean Romig
10-12-2011, 11:14 PM
Otherwise, it's not a complicated operation.


But it's about the most difficult/frustrating step in disassembling a Parker.

Brian Dudley
10-13-2011, 09:56 AM
I figured the pushrod had to be keyed to the ferrule. But I would have never thought that the ferrule was threaded in.

John Campbell
10-13-2011, 06:53 PM
Dudley:
Yes. This is why it has notches -- really the very outer ends of a screw slot. There is only about .25 inches of fine thread. When the ferrule stops unscrewing upward, it's time to tap it out from the bottom.

Best, Kensal

Brian Dudley
10-14-2011, 09:49 PM
Got it out no problem. I found that a bit in my Magna-tip thin bit set from Brownells fit perfectly.
Bit #270-2
Width: .270 (6.8mm)
.025 thick.