new parker owner

[Frank Mauro]

Hello fellow Parker gun owners, just bought my first Parker
a trojan 28" brls 12ga. bores are shiny, forend is nice. action tight.:)
now the sad news, my GOD THEY CUT 3" OFF STOCK:crying:
THEN PIECED ON 2 1" YELLOW PINE SLABS. REALLY. I am hoping
someone out there can help me find a usuable stock. you see
am going to south dakota oct for pheasants. taking my model 12
20ga. was also con sidering the BIG sxs 12ga Parker. any info
greatly appreciated. thanks F.M.

[Robin Lewis]

I did a google for ("parker stock" + shotgun) and found links.... I know nothing about any of these except how to google so this is NOT a recommendation of any kind! There were other links, I just picked two for you to get you started that looked interesting.

http://www.auctionarms.com/closed/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9523340.0

http://shop.macongunstocks.com/Parker-Shotgun-Stocks-Example-Walnut-Butt-stock-PARKER-STOCK.htm

[Frank Mauro]

HELLO, F.M. THE new 1st time Parker owner, trojan with the cut stock!!
thank you sooo. much for the link you sent me, very helpfull. I have noticed in the forum ,
my first Trojan has the problem of.brls wont come OFF and when trying to close.must
push the lever over twice. any ideas how to correct this malfunction.
thank you, F.M.

[Francis Morin]

Most often, the problem is accumulated crud and dried oil gumming up the barrel trip-- try this-- remove the splinter forearm- there is no release on the Parker Trojan grade guns, I use a long wedge of soft pine carefully inserted at the tip of the forearm-so as NOT to mar the forearm or barrels- then move the top lever over until the barrels are freed and pivot away from the receiver. Push down on the top of the barrel trip with a key or tip of a flat blade screwdriver and see if the top lever moves back to the closed position, as it should. Some CLP or crud cleaner might help--

I have receiver parts for a 12 Trojan if needed later on, alas, no stocks. The 12 Trojan was only made on a No. 2 frame, so there may be some stocks out there- try Galazan's- but you have to look under Novelty Stocks to find them, why that is so, I do not know. I have owned two 12 gauge Trojans over past 30 years, and the pheasants and ducks hated to see me totin' them afield or in the blind- they shoot as well as the A-1 Specials, and were made to be used- enjoy--:bigbye:

[Frank Mauro]

hi fRANCIS, JUST FOUND YOUR REPLY ,THANK YOU FOR THE WARM WELCOME TO THE FORUM!! I DID TAKE THE FOREARM OFF THE 1ST DAY GOT IT HOME CLEANED OUT BRLS AND ALL AREAS I COULD IN RECIEVER. BUT BRLS WONT COME OFF#*&^# BLASTED, DANG
DARN. YOU KNOW THE REST!!MY OTHER SXS AND O/U OFF IN A FLASH. BUT I WILL TRY
PUSHING DOWN ON THE LEVER INSIDE FROM YOU MENTIONED WITH SMALL FLAT DRIVER.
THANK YOU MUCH f.m.

[Francis Morin]

hi fRANCIS, JUST FOUND YOUR REPLY ,THANK YOU FOR THE WARM WELCOME TO THE FORUM!! I DID TAKE THE FOREARM OFF THE 1ST DAY GOT IT HOME CLEANED OUT BRLS AND ALL AREAS I COULD IN RECIEVER. BUT BRLS WONT COME OFF#*&^# BLASTED, DANG
DARN. YOU KNOW THE REST!!MY OTHER SXS AND O/U OFF IN A FLASH. BUT I WILL TRY
PUSHING DOWN ON THE LEVER INSIDE FROM YOU MENTIONED WITH SMALL FLAT DRIVER.
THANK YOU MUCH f.m.--- I am a bit puzzled here. If you cleaned the barrels I assume you got the gun opened with the forearm still in place, and then ran a barrel swab down each barrel from breech forward to the muzzle, am I right. But if I read your reply, even with the gun cocked and then the forearm off, then when you move the top lever to the right until it stops, you are NOT able to then removed the barrels, is that correct? Parker hammerless guns are cocked by a set of interlocking (when the gun is together) hooks, one set in the barrel lug, the other affixed to the cocking slide that is in the base of the receiver-- Is there "play" in the top lever when you move it to the right, or can you feel the slight resistance? It is possible that the top lever spindle and the cam that move the locking bolt back and forth in the lower receiver may not be engaging, there are also other possibilities. As this is your first Parker, may I suggest you let us know where you are and someone on the PGCA can recommend a qualified gunsmith to you- Best to let him go over your shotgun.

South Dakota and Fall Fezzants- sounds like a great trip- I also have a M12 20 gauge, given to me on my 12th birthday in 1952- 28" mod choke, made in 1932 and I shot many pheasants and ducks with it, my oldest grandson will start with it when he turns 12- I have two buttstocks for it, I'll put the shorter one on it for him later- I love Model 12's- they didn't call them the "Perfect Repeater" for nothing- best natural pointing repeater ever made in the USA- IMO!!:bigbye::bigbye:

[Bill Murphy]

Often, a Parker with stuck barrels will release its barrels after dry firing both barrels and then removing the forend and barrels. If the barrels come off after dry firing the gun, squirt some solvent or some such into the cocking slide area inside the lug slots of the action. That may solve your problem. Let us know how this works.

[Frank Mauro]

--- I am a bit puzzled here. If you cleaned the barrels I assume you got the gun opened with the forearm still in place, and then ran a barrel swab down each barrel from breech forward to the muzzle, am I right. But if I read your reply, even with the gun cocked and then the forearm off, then when you move the top lever to the right until it stops, you are NOT able to then removed the barrels, is that correct? Parker hammerless guns are cocked by a set of interlocking (when the gun is together) hooks, one set in the barrel lug, the other affixed to the cocking slide that is in the base of the receiver-- Is there "play" in the top lever when you move it to the right, or can you feel the slight resistance? It is possible that the top lever spindle and the cam that move the locking bolt back and forth in the lower receiver may not be engaging, there are also other possibilities. As this is your first Parker, may I suggest you let us know where you are and someone on the PGCA can recommend a qualified gunsmith to you- Best to let him go over your shotgun.

South Dakota and Fall Fezzants- sounds like a great trip- I also have a M12 20 gauge, given to me on my 12th birthday in 1952- 28" mod choke, made in 1932 and I shot many pheasants and ducks with it, my oldest grandson will start with it when he turns 12- I have two buttstocks for it, I'll put the shorter one on it for him later- I love Model 12's- they didn't call them the "Perfect Repeater" for nothing- best natural pointing repeater ever made in the USA- IMO!!:bigbye::bigbye:

HI FRANCIS, you are right. I cleaned the Brls with forearm OFF.but they still wont come off frame.I live IN PGH,PA A retired long time friend. who has owned several Parkers " in every Gauge". Has voluntered to take a LONG HARD LOOK:) INTO the matter.later this week: if he is stumped, then i will take your advice. have a gunsmith look-fix it.IN the meen time,thinking about a chucker-pheasant hunt at local shooting reserve.this one will be a "GOOD OLD RELIABLE PUMP GUN SHOOT" WIN model 42 and mod 12 20ga.
thank you for all your input stay well FRANCIS. F.M.

[Destry L. Hoffard]

Finding a stock to fit, even a real factory Trojan one, will be a chore. They just don't normally interchange, even on the same grades and frame size.

Your best bet will probably be to have a decent butt extension installed them give the wood a year to settle down. After that have it dressed off again to match the surface of the original stock and then have it grain painted to match.

I know a couple guys that have done this and they turned out pretty well. Much cheaper than a restock which I'm sure you don't want to pay for since it would probably be more than the gun is worth.


Destry

[Bill Murphy]

First, there is not a Parker stock in the auctionarms ad. Second, did you try what I suggested? I know my post was buried in with a lot of surrounding conversation, but "Did you read it?"