Floor plate not quite flush

[Jack Cronkhite]

I was playing with the frame and trigger plate on 108603. Both are clean. When the plate is seated into the frame, a small area at the "doll's head" portion of the plate rides noticeably proud of the frame. I'm guessing something is slightly warped, most likely the trigger plate head. It seats flush everywhere else along the full fit. Has anyone "repaired" something like that? Gentle smacking with a small rubber hammer does not change anything.

I could just live with it, but I'd rather the entire piece fit flush.

Thoughts??

Thanks,
Jack

[Austin W Hogan]

Clean the back of the floor plate , the frame recess and the trigger plate thoroughly. Inspect them for burrs or nicks. Check the seating of the trigger plate. Check the seating of the floor plate without the trigger plate. When you re assemble, be sure the floor plate is flush before putting in the screws.

Best, Austin

[Eric Eis]

"Has anyone "repaired" something like that? Gentle smacking with a small rubber hammer does not change anything."

Jack it's very simple you need to use a larger hammer. :rotf::rotf: Sorry could not resist...

Seriously though, the floorplate is harden and would probably break if forced in anyway they are brittle. If Austin ideas don't work I would live with it. Eric

[Jack Cronkhite]

Okay, there was a bit of a burr on the mating edge of the floor plate. The frame has no issues (in this area). I removed the burr. A bit more of the floor plate is flush, but not all. I think the burr may have been someone prying the floor plate off, instead of the proper removal technique. I am able to fit the plate nicely flush but for a bit on the left side (looking at it, which is really the right side). So, being hardened, is it possible that it left the factory somewhat proud of the frame? The base of the plate under the three screws does touch the frame as well, so there would be no drawing the plate in further when torquing the screws. It does take a bit of torque and all three do index correctly. It could be ground flush, but there goes the zig-zag engraving. Didn't know of the possibility of cracking the plate, so no BIGGER hammer smacking. :)

Pretty sure I will just live with it. I know prior to spending time on PGCA forum, I wouldn't have even noticed this, nor would have improperly indexed screws ever bothered me. Didn't know where a lever should sit or what is off-face or how to do a temporary fifty year fix for that. So many small issues bother me now, which is good as I'm able to pass on most anything out there within my play budget and when I do jump, I will be pleased or at least know what the issues are. So, a short thanks to all the teachers out there.
Cheers,
Jack

[Dean Romig]

Jack, it would never have left Meriden that way. Even the Trojan had perfectly fitted floor plates when they were finished.

Did you notice if it was that way before you took it apart for the first time?

The only solution I can think of besides what has been suggested is to fit the floorplate in the frame with firm pressure on the foreward section, seat and tighten the two screws to their index position and then turn in and index the rear screw.... 'course, that's just common sense and you've probably already tried that.

Dean

[lee r moege]

I have the same thing on my DHE 20 that I originally thought was due to the poor restock. The back part of the upper tang was proud on the wood and the trigger plate was not down flush at the back. I cleaned every thing inside and looked for burrs on the plate and action mortise. None. I put the plate in place without any internal parts in the gun and it's seated in the action cut firmly on the bottom. The right side is dead nuts flush as is the left EXCEPT for the last 1/8" or less on the trigger end. It looks like the action corner on the left side may have been damaged at some time and dressed down a little. The trigger plate protrudes about .025 on the corner when fully seated and I have about decided to live with it. I saw an ad on I think Guns International that showed a Parker with a "proud" plate along most of one side so I think these issues are from some heavy handed butcher/smith. Lee.

[Jack Cronkhite]

I think I agree with you Lee. The area on mine that is not flush is the thin portion of the "doll's head" of the plate. It is mostly milled out on the back side at that location. Maybe it got dropped, maybe prying did it, maybe ????.....

Now that I have gone around the full edge of the plate, I see that it has been mangled on both long sides plus the burr I already removed from the "doll's head". There are gouges that look suspiciously like the width of a screw driver blade that wasn't quite as wide as the floor plate screw slots that are also buggered.

I am getting picky. The darn thing is flush everywhere but that short length. It is noticeable and will catch a fingernail run across that spot. I keep thinking of smacking it with a chunk of lead :eek:
Cheers,
Jack

[lee r moege]

Jack: Don't worry about the lead! I already gave mine a tap with a big RUBBER mallet when I discovered it. It didn't help either. Best solution is 2 double shots of Glenlivet on the rocks, calm down, cuss the b-------d with the screwdriver, and let it ride! I think it was the same set of thumbs that covered the beautiful piece of wood on mine with epoxy. I am broken out all over my hands and wrists trying to strip that crap off but I finally got it down to where I can either sand or file the rest while I give the surplus wood the shape a Parker should have. Ever see a #1 frame inletted into a #6 frame piece of wood? That's what I have. Bottoms up/down or any direction you prefer. Lee.:)

[Richard Flanders]

Non flush floorplates are a PITA Jack. I find it's mostly from improper removal, prying under the edges with a screwdriver or driving a punch down between the tables without removing all the floorplate screws and warping the plate. The floorplates aren't so hard that the can't be flattened again. I lay them on a thick flat block of aluminum, or bridge them between two blocks, and use a small leather or plastic hammer to gently bend areas that are warped. You can use a small metal straight edge and the surface of the block to gage for flatness where you perceive a problem and gently tap where appropriate to get it back to where it should be. Sounds like you've inspected it carefully for burrs. Once they're cleaned up you should be able to get it seating flat again. Just be cautious.

[Jack Cronkhite]

Richard: I recall a post from a couple years back where you mentioned lead and aluminum so I went to the metal recycler here and had them cut me a good chunk of lead and they had some nice flat aluminum blocks. So I have had those sitting on the bench for a while now. I keep looking at them and if your experience says it can be done, then so be it.

Lee: In my pre-"rat poison" life, I would certainly have hoisted a single malt and left the PITA for another day. Now I just leave it for another day and pour Kay any beverage she choses (My stash of SM's is in no danger from her. Her Dad, well that's another story. They're his if need be. I figure he gave lots as a WWII vet and consenting to "give" his daughter's hand to me some 40 years ago)

Funny that PITA was used in the post today. While on the dog hike I thought about PETA and wondered just how soon any of us might convert a vegetarian if we were stranded together in a less than hospitable environment with "rescue" not an early option.

Cheers,
Jack

[calvin humburg]

My daughter is still in bed so I can't get a diffention whats PITA?

[Chuck Heald]

PITA = pain in the arse
PETA = People for The Ethical Treatment of Animals

[calvin humburg]

Like that 1 thanks.

[Chuck Heald]

Jack,
Like Rich said, floorplates aren't hard, except about .005-.010" on the surface. They will bend.

There should be a little "draft angle" on the flooplate, similar to the draft angle on the parts that fit into the stock inletting. That part where there was a burr, you can take a little diamond sharpening stick (if you don't have diamond Swiss style files) and reduce the contact there by putting more draft angle in that area.

When you assemble it, you can put the watertable and floorplate in a vise with hardwood jaws and clamp it to seat it.

Chuck

[Larry Frey]

PITA = pain in the arse
PETA = People for The Ethical Treatment of Animals
Also=People Eating Tasty Animals

[Chuck Heald]

Partridge Eating Tastes Awesome?

[Austin W Hogan]

If the floorplate has warped, a good hit in the right spot might take care of it. The problem is to know the right spot and the right hammer.
The floorplate probably began to work while still in place. Releasing it during dis assembly let it come to a new equilibrium. Try this; mark the entire edge of the floor plate with magic marker if you do not have layout blue. Place the floorplate in the frame and give it a light tap. Remove the floorplate and look for lost color; those are the tight spots.
Cover the back of the floor plate with a thin coat of grease. Insert the floorplate and tap. The grease will adhere to spots where the floorplate touches.
Have you checked the floorplate with a good, hard straight edge? That should verify if warpage has occurred; metal parts also grow when blued, or when corrosion begins.

Best, Austin

[Jack Cronkhite]

Thanks Austin: I will give that a go next. Lots of issues that could contribute to this one. Clearly it was abused at some point to remove it. These pics also speak to the possibility of rust initiated issues. :)

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=130&pictureid=1437http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=130&pictureid=1436http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=130&pictureid=1435

[Richard Flanders]

Holy V grade Jackman! You get the prize for the worst Parker innards I have ever seen to date. You can bend a floor plate that rusted up just trying to remove it, even when doing it properly, just as you can bend a lock plate on a side lock gun when the front section is seriously rusted into the receiver.... been there. Side lock plates bend very easily, as do these floor plates, and are pretty easy to straighten. Bad as it looks I bet it will clean up ok though. I'd say you need to get all the rust cleaned off thoroughly before you'll know how the floor plate seats, if you haven't already. If it's been warped by improper removal or such it doesn't work to install it and gently hammer on the edges, not always anyway. If the mis fit is slight it will just spring back. You have to bend it while it's out. They bend easily. Caution is recommended. Baby steps with the little soft hammer.... and I want to see pics of these pieces cleaned up! Where was this thing stored?? In a manure pile!!?

[Jack Cronkhite]

Hmmmm...... don't have the floor plate pic yet. Here's the trigger spring and screw though. pittiing pretty significant. I intend to reassemble most the original bits and we'll see what happens. Such a spring might fail or maybe not I did find one sear to replace a really messed up sear.

[Richard Flanders]

That's not bad Jack. That'll work fine. Good job... And I thought I had some good cleanup pics! It's impressive what will clean up well...

[Chuck Heald]

Even my nice looking #1 frame which probably hadn't been apart for 100 yrs, had similar crud, although it looked like tar.