Safety Lever and Safety Lever Sleeve Needed

[Paul Bridges]

I basically rescued a GH 12 gauge built on a 2 frame from the junk pile. It was broken in two at the wrist, with the lower tang broken at the trigger rebound spring hole. I have the frame repaired and a replcement buttstock mostly built, but I need a safety lever and lever sleeve (must have been lost in the "accident"). I have tried the usual places (Dixie, Numrich, Popparts), any body got an idea where I can find these parts?

[Dean Romig]

There's a box of Parker parts on gunbroker.com and I saw three automatic safety rods in one compartment but I don't remember if the parts you want are included in the misc. parts in the box.

[Mark Ouellette]

Hey Dean!

I've placed the only bit on that box of Parker parts. I'd gladly share a few parts from it than have to prove my machismo with my wallet via bidding.

Thanks,
Mark

[Dave Suponski]

I have a bushing for the tang screw if that is what you are referring to.

[Paul Bridges]

I saw that box of parts, but I didn't see the parts I need in it. If they are there I am not recognizing them. Hopefully I will find them eventually. The gun has damascus barrels with beautiful mirror bores, It definately needs to be saved. Thanks to everyone for the discussion.

[Robin Lewis]

have you tried Larry DelGrego
http://www.parkershotgunrepair.com/parker_shotgun_services.html

[Mark Ouellette]

Hi Paul,

A benefit of membership is the members only For Sale and Wanted to Buy forums. I have sold a very nice Parker and also bought a Parker using the forums. I also obtained parts using the Wanted to Buy forum.

It is PGCA members taking care of each other.

Respectfully,
Mark

[Paul Bridges]

I will both call Larry DelGrego and join the Parker Gun Association!

[Dean Romig]

"All's well that ends well."

Mark - That's how it should work... not by bidding against each other but by sharing the wealth.

...No, I'm not a socialist but I do believe in taking care of each other for the common good.

[Dave Purnell]

Paul, Is this your only Parker? I ask because if you have another as an example, These parts are fairly easy to make with a grinder and a drill. Several years ago I saved a similar GH. It had a replacement stock and no safety parts inside. The lever and sleeve is not really very high tech. It's just a lever that connects the safety slide, and when the safety is on, it swings into position to block the trigger blades from engaging the sears. It's more a matter of the angle that it is inletted into the stock, than the refinement of the lever itself. The jacket is just a sheet metal sleeve to wedge it into the stock so the lever swings freely. Sorry, I used to have some pics of it before my hard drive died a couple years ago.

Dave

[Paul Bridges]

It is unfortunately, my only Parker, so I don't have a template to work from. If I don't find one, hopefully, eventually I will be able to buy another Parker and make one.

[Mark Ouellette]

Paul,

So that we may communicate clearly please use the "Technical" reference diagrams from the PGCA main webpage. The links below will open to the diagrams and the list below provides the proper names of parts.

I thought you needed 2 seperate parts until I looked at the diagrams and realized that you need only one:

Part# 28) Safety lever and jacket

http://parkerguns.org/images/parts.jpg
http://parkerguns.org/images/tech_2.jpg

1) Right-hand hammer
2) Left-hand hammer
3) Hammer stirrup
4) Main spring
5) Main spring plunger
6) Sear
7) Sear spring
8) Right-hand trigger
9) Left-hand trigger
10) Trigger spring
11) Top lever
12) Extractor
13) Cocking slide
14) Bolt lever, with roll 15) Square top bolt
16) Round top bolt
17) Roll
18) Roll pin
19) Top lever spring
20) Trip, spring and pin
21) Unhooking slide
22) Cocking crank
23) Cocking hook
24) Cocking hook pin and spring
25) Cocking hook screw
26) Safety pin
27) Unhooking pin and spring 28) Safety lever and jacket
29) Safety slide
30) Safety slide spring
31) Sear Pin
32) Bushing for tang screw
33) Fore end lock, complete
34) Fore end lever
35) Fore end tumbler
36) Fore end lever spring
37) Guard bow
38) Trigger plate
39) Fore end iron

[Paul Bridges]

Yes, you are correct it is part 28. I have an old Parker diagram that shows it in 3 parts (the jacket (sleeve), the lever, and the pin), but on the site it is Part 28.

[lee r moege]

Dave: How important is the tang screw bushing and will it be a different size and length on a #1 frame as opposed to a #2? I am trying to save a beautiful piece of wood on the 20 ga. DHE I bought as it was left Proud all around. It was partly glass bedded and whoever did the work put a bushing in the back tang screw hole. Since it is fully glassed now I am thinking of glassing the front tang screw and letting it go at that. What do you or any of the rest of the group think about this? It isn't original wood anymore anyway. Lee.

[Dan May]

The bushing's only job is to hold in the auto safety pin. Once the gun is assembled the pin is captured anyway so it really is superfluous. Many stockmakers don't even bother to reinstall it on a restock unless the customer insists for originality. It is extra work for no purpose.

Many think that this bushing also serves to preserve tang depth, like pillar bedding in a rifle stock. This is incorrect because the bottom of the parker bushing doesn't generally bear against the triggerplate.

As long as your safety jacket is inletted correctly, your tang depth is OK and your holes are straight and of appropriate size you may forget about the bushing.

Hope this helps.

Dan May

[lee r moege]

Dan: Thanks so much for the reply on the stock ferrule. I had never seen an original so didn't know of it's true purpose. I was thrown off some by the fact that in restocking Mausers over the years all the old military takeoffs had a ferrule which is still available from Brownell's and Midway. Their main use was to keep the stock from splitting at the rear tang, as a correctly bedded M-98 has a socket on the recoil lug that mates with the recess in the front of the trigger guard. This Parker has no automatic safety to begin with so a ferrule is not needed. Again, Thank You So Much!!!! I am learning more from you guys all the time. Lee.

[Dan May]

Lee,

You're most welcome. Glad I could help.

All the best, Dan

[Kirk Pfeffer]

Is there a similar diagram for a non-ejector gun?
Kirk

[Jack Cronkhite]

Yes, you are correct it is part 28. I have an old Parker diagram that shows it in 3 parts (the jacket (sleeve), the lever, and the pin), but on the site it is Part 28.

There are three parts involved

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1472

[Mark Ouellette]

Paul,

If you want to make a the safety lever group send PS Forge a Paul Harm a PM. He has one that he is going to insert into a restock that never had one. I know this because I sold him the gun and bought the part for him from a PGCA member.

If there is a good machinst out there Paul may even loan this part to them so that they may copy it...

Mark

[David Hamilton]

Many people here have removed the safety actuating sliding pin in order to eliminate the automatic safety feature. Many Parkers were sold without safeties. David

[Paul Bridges]

Thanks for the info. I plan to start saving to buy a 10 gauge hammerless damascus gun, (I load all my shells with black powder) so if I don't find the safety lever and jacket by that time I will just make one using the original from the new gun as a pattern.

I appeciate everyone's input.