Frozen Ejector, 1913 12-guage

[peter cameron]

My gun (1913 12-guage Trojan) has been sitting around unused for a few years and now the shell ejector is not moving smoothly. I can open the gun but not close it again unless I forcibly move the ejector. I have gotten some oil partially onto the ejector rod and I am wondering if there is a way to get the rod completely out so I can oil the whole length of it.

[Daryl Corona]

Peter;
I think you mean extractors, not ejectors.
Just take the barrels off the action and spray a few drops of a penetrating solution on either ends of the rod. WD40, Kroil or similar product should free it up. Work the ejector back and forth with your fingers and you should feel the resistance ease up. Then follow up with a drop or two of a good oil. If that does'nt work then you will have to remove the extractor and polish it with some OOOO steel wool and above mentioned penetrating products. Good luck.

[peter cameron]

Thanks a lot for the response. The extractor is not moving with my hands. I have to tap it with a piece of metal to get it to move. You said that I might have to take it out. How do I do that? Thanks.

[Dave Suponski]

Peter, Take the barrels off and turn them upside down. On the barrel lug you will notice a set screw. Back it out a bit and the extractor will be free to remove. The extractor rod has a flat milled into it to allow the screw to function. Please use the correct turnscrew so as to not mar the set screw.

[peter cameron]

Thanks so much for responding.

I found that tiny screw and I assume that it hasn't been unscrewed for over 100 years. I sprayed some WD-40 on it and hope that I can move it tomorrow. I have a set of small screwdrivers and one fits into the groove very well. However, there's no moving it now. Let's see what the WD-40 does.

I am a complete novice on the gun. My father left it to me when he died and I have been using it for squirrels for about eight years. About two years ago, a local gunsmith said the barrels were pitted and it was dangerous to shoot it. So I put it on the wall. I bought a Mossburg and have been using it, but it is too heavy for me. A friend who hunts a lot said that the pitted barrels on the Parker should not prevent me from using it. If I can use the elegant Parker instead of the heavy Mossburg, I'd love it.

Do you know of anyone to whom I can mail the gun and they will give it a tuneup? I think the gun is too valuable for me to be working on it.

[Eric Eis]

Thanks so much for responding.

I found that tiny screw and I assume that it hasn't been unscrewed for over 100 years. I sprayed some WD-40 on it and hope that I can move it tomorrow. I have a set of small screwdrivers and one fits into the groove very well. However, there's no moving it now. Let's see what the WD-40 does.

I am a complete novice on the gun. My father left it to me when he died and I have been using it for squirrels for about eight years. About two years ago, a local gunsmith said the barrels were pitted and it was dangerous to shoot it. So I put it on the wall. I bought a Mossburg and have been using it, but it is too heavy for me. A friend who hunts a lot said that the pitted barrels on the Parker should not prevent me from using it. If I can use the elegant Parker instead of the heavy Mossburg, I'd love it.

Do you know of anyone to whom I can mail the gun and they will give it a tuneup? I think the gun is too valuable for me to be working on it.

Not sure where you live, but Brian D in NY or Brad B in Mich are two that come to mind and both are on this board

[Dean Romig]

There are better penetrants than WD-40 for emulsifying rust in screw threads.






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[peter cameron]

Thanks a lot. I have contacted both of the individuals you recommended.

[William Davis]

Kroll is what you want to loosen frozen screws. WD 40 not a good,choice.

William

[peter cameron]

Thank you William for the tip on using Kroll. I'll try it.

[Jack Cronkhite]

Some pics to let you see the parts involved. Patience is a virtue for any work on an old gun. Good penetrating oil soak for a good bit of time first. Then clean the screw head slot with a toothpick until you get all the "crud" out. Then a hollow ground turn screw bit that completely fills the slot. Then downward hand pressure while keeping the bit firmly against the bottom of the slot and begin to exert counter-clockwise pressure - start gently. If it won't budge, let it soak longer and try again. You should eventually win without marring the screw head. Once the parts are out, clean them completely and work the rod with steel wool. I run a .22 cleaning brush through the hole for the rod to clean whatever might be in there. Some gun grease on the rod and slide it back and forth a few times should do it. If all is good, finger pressure should move the rod. I also disassemble and clean the cocking hook parts.

Of course, you can never go wrong by sending your gun to a pro to perform this type of maintenance. Cheers, Jack

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1347
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[peter cameron]

Thank you so much for all the information. I did take one part of your advice. I found the name of a gunsmith and sent the gun to him yesterday. There were a few other things that needed to be done on the gun, so it seemed worth it for me to hire someone. Thanks again.

[Dean Romig]

We sincerely hope you sent it to the right "gunsmith".






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