need more advice

[calvin humburg]

Hunting season is about gone here so I have decided 2 get my ol beater worker on. Want 2 get the hing pin tightened and looseness in face out. Who would u recommed? Any of u guys that flew in the service ever fly that route that went through ness co KS they fly right over my dads house. b52 b1 and a little this and that. they were probably stationed in wichita? ch

[Harry Collins]

Calvin,

A quick fix is to purchase some sheets of brass from the hardware store ($5.00). Cut a section out the width of the "role" about an inch long. Wrap it around a pencil and clip it onto the "role". Gun is on face.

The expensive way is to have a shim soldered to the front lug of the barrels. The Parker way was to change the "role".

Pictures to follow.

Harry

[Harry Collins]

Pictures...

[calvin humburg]

thanks harry does anybody change the"role" now? ch it has about 8 thousants lash at face what thickness shim stock would u start with?

[Larry Frey]

Calvin,
If you start with .005 and it's still loose than go a little heavier. I recently had Russ Bickle tighten a 16 gage for me by adding material to the barrel hook. This is much easier and less expensive than replacing the roll joint. If you really wanted to replace the roll joint I believe DelGregos has them in various sizes and would be a good choice for that repair.

[calvin humburg]

Larry,
Going 2 get some brass 2day. I can't find DelGregos on the internet. ch

[Dean Romig]

Del Grego, Ilion, NY

[George Lander]

Calvin: Larry Del Grego & Sons
1757 Barringer Road
Ilion, New York 13357
Phone:(315) 894-8754

Best Regards, George

[Francis Morin]

Calvin, if you don't mind- I'm a bit curious as to how you determined the 0.0080" wear or gap at the hinge-- Harry's remarks about using brass shim stock is one very good way to go, having Larry Del Greco install a new hinge pin to 'size" is certainly another- it is also possible, in some cases, to rebuild the wear surface of the hinge pin with spray well and remachining- I have never removed a hinge pin from a Parker (or a Smith) but I believe the set screw is a LH thread (as you will find in the triiger housing group of a M12 for example)--

When you state "off face" did you mean when the forearm is removed with the gun cocked, you can "wiggle" the barrels slightly- another test is to then either mount it into your shoulder pocket with a bit of "ommph" or smack the buttplate/recoil pad to see if there is any laternal "shuck" or movement- if so, that might mean the bolt wear plate or wear in the doll's head area- hard to know for sure.

There are many very fine Parker gunsmiths extant, and thank the Lord for that- The "advantage" the Del Greco's have is the long generations of ties to the Parker gun and also their inventory of original Parker parts. Their reputation speaks for itself-- Best of luck with the repairs--:bigbye:

[calvin humburg]

Francis,
I thought (thought being the key word) loose on the face ment it had space between the top of barrel and top of receiver. stuck feeler gauge between barrel and flat piece the firing pins r in 8 thousants was a liberal number. The hing just watching the gap around the hing don't move much around 1 thousant havent tried it with forend off will tomarrow gun at farm. Can't get any play trying 2 stretch and contract whole gun. bet all that is as clear as mud. ch

[Francis Morin]

Brother Dean Romig's advice about having a good double gun man who knows Parkers look it over is "Spot On"-- Wear at the hinge pin where it makes contact with the milled "C-hooked" radius in the lug is common with doubles that have seen some usage, and can be corrected-Many older quality double guns were fitted at the breech by patient craftsmen with smoke lamps, files and stones- all hand work.

Parkers and LC Smiths were the double guns I grew up with in the family- but I recall my Grandpa's best friend and hunting partner shot a AH Fox- 12 engraved ejector gun with Krupp barrels- My Grandpa usually shot Winchester paper ranger bird loads, one day he bought a box of UMC instead-
Turned out that the rim dia. of the UMC hulls was about 0.0015" larger than on the Winchester shells- my grandfather owned a machine shop and "miked" the shells that night- as only the Winchester shells would allow Mr. Bontrager's Fox to close properly- that's an old time example of how precisely our older doubles were fitted-

If your Parker has selective ejectors, you'll notice a set screw in the end of the doll's head barrel extension- it might be possible that the milled slots in the extension are in need of attention. I have never (yet anyway) heard of a barrel rib extension on a Parker, AH Fox or LC Smith being part of any possible "off face" but as the wise men say- "Never Say Never"-

If you care to give a location, I am sure some of the members here can recommend a good competent gunsmith in your area to check over your "Old Reliable"--:bigbye:

[calvin humburg]

It has a extractor, both shells same time.

[Austin W Hogan]

Remove the extractor (1 screw) and clean the bolt, the bolt bite, the water table and the barrel flats with Hoppes on a Q tip. Put the gun back together and see if it closes tightly without the extractor. Debris under the extractor can spring the frame.

Best, Austin

[Brad Bachelder]

Calvin, I agree that lack of routine cleaning under the extractor can easily compound wear to the barrel hook.Cleaning that area is vital. The specific reason for the off face condition is due to different hardness between bearing surfaces. The reciever and hinge pin are heat treated, the barrel lug hook and dolls head are relatively soft and are not treated. Upon firing the inertia placed on the barrels is a forward stress or movement. As this stress occurs, the softer metal will yield and compress to the harder metal. Thus loose on face.
Shimming and hinge pin replacement are at best, temporary fixes. The only best fix is to increase the metal at the hook radius. Due to the barrel lump brazing and rib soldering, high temps need to be avoided. Lazer welding is the only, low temp process "radiating heat", that protects the surrounding areas.
Lazer welding is the only welding that is totally controllable in penetration and build up thickness. The steel in the fill material is harder that the original steel, extending the life of the fix.
Refitting the barrels and extension should only be done by someone that is well versed in this process. The fix should cost you between 3 and 4 hundred bucks, well worth it considering the extended life to the gun. Also the fix should be totally undetectable. It can be done.

Brad

[calvin humburg]

Thanks fellows! I'll try that, I have cleanded under extractor but not took it out. I think the old girl has just been shot a lot she looks it, a tool 4 putting food on the table. Checkering gone sometimes I wonder if it has been sanded, some of the corners that fit up 2 the metal are rounded a little. And sometimes i just think its wear, dosen't matter she is still doing her job. she been around since 1881 I think shes just a little loose. I'm going 2 fix her up right some of these days. O yeah I want a pretty 1 someday. I like hammers that why we came together I wasen't looking 4 a parker when I started looking 4 hammer gun but happy thats what i got!!!!!!!!!! lifter even cooler. ch