Model 12

[Russ Jackson]

I know this is a little off topic of double guns ,but I know some of you guys have to collect Model 12 Winchesters , I have recently found a very nice Model 12 Win.a 1952 Model in 20 Ga. w/ a left handed safety , My question is can this safety be reversed to fit a right handed shooter ?

[Don Kaas]

It can be reversed but you will need the standard Winchester part. The LH safety is likely a Williams after market item.

[Russ Jackson]

Don; Thank you much for the info. The gun is in real nice cond. really about the only wear is on the left side of the receiver ,looks as if maybe a hunter with a dog ,either a pointing breed or maybe a Beagle owner ,that didn't carry the gun at " Port Arms " but carried the gun in his left hand until he was ready to shoot ,if you put the gun in your left hand the only blue, wear is under your palm and a little on the top left edge of the receiver ! Thanks again !! Russ

[Steve McCarty]

While you probably already know this, but Winchester made the model 12 in 20 gauge first. I always thought that was strange. The 20 gauge gun, as you now know, is fast to bring to shoulder. Early ones have short chambers in both 20 and 12 gauge...don't know about the 16's.

I prefer well worn nickle steel marked guns, but for no real reason. I just like'em. Frankly the older a Model 12 looks the better I like it, as long as it is not too worn out and works. Brownell sells a shim that you can put in front of the barrel to tighten a loose barrel to like new. Works on a 12 or 16 and I believe on a 97 too.

[Steve Huffman]

You should not have to buy anything to tighten up either gun . I always used the adjusting ring on both . Unless the early guns didnt have them

[Steve McCarty]

You should not have to buy anything to tighten up either gun . I always used the adjusting ring on both . Unless the early guns didnt have them

So do you unscrew those two little screws one sees in the face of that ring inside the breech to draw it forward to tighten the barrel in the gun? I have never tried that. I just let them be and dropped in the shim which worked fine. The 1923 Model 12, which has seen a lot of use, is now tight as a drum.

[Steve Huffman]

no on the rear of the barrel assembly

[Bill Murphy]

A 1952 Model 12 20 gauge should still be in the first notch of the takeup feature and still be tight. A 1952 20 gauge Model 12 will have a 2 3/4" chamber. Great guns.

[Eric Grims]

"I prefer well worn nickle steel marked guns..."

They are so nice when well worn. My NS fully opens when pointed upright and you push the slide release. My 20 gauge needs about another couple hundred thousand rounds through it to get there. I also like the 12 in 26" Mod. - it is a fast handling gun and was great on ducks in the era when lead was king.

[Steve McCarty]

no on the rear of the barrel assembly

Thanks, Steve. Got a gun right here. I'll take a look.

Got it. Is the little screw on the rear of the barrel assembly that is alongside the end of the barrel supposed to be screwed in flush?

[Steve McCarty]

Okay, got my 16 gauge gun. Has a new or after market magazine tube. Gun was extremely inexpensive. With that new magazine tube it doesn't take down easily, so I am always futzing with it. So I just broke it down and the bolt fell back and into the rear of the breech. Do I need to removed the trigger assembly to get it back forward? Is there a trick to it?

[Scott Janowski]

No it sticks out proud.

[Steve Huffman]

Push it forward with your finger /thumb it should lock closed. Its been awhile

[Steve McCarty]

No it sticks out proud.

You are not helping me to get this #$%^& gun back together!

[Steve Huffman]

:rotf::rotf: Im not laughing at you but remembering my times with these . This is a smooth process once you learn it . Take your time

[Scott Janowski]

My response is about the little screw on the barrel to tighten the barrel up.

[Scott Janowski]

I suggest you go to you tube and type in Winchester Model 12 disassembly. It may help.

[wayne goerres]

I hate to say this but Larry Porterfield (Midway USA) made a video on tightening up the barrel on Winchester shotguns.

[Rich Anderson]

Russ a right handed safty should be easily obtained from just about any of the gun catalogs like Midway, Brownells etc. If not I think I might have one.

[Steve McCarty]

While I am a huge fan of the Win Mod 12, and I have five of them, I am not an expert on the gun. I have taken one down a few times and have spent many hours trying to put them back together. Simply stated - they are not easy.

After having messed with the guns for hours on end, and taking my time, I conclude that an easier gun to field strip and reassemble just might be a better gun. Consider the Rem 870 and Ithaca Mod 37.

All that aside, I like the Mod 12. I like the machined receivers and when they work they work well. But darn it all, the Ithaca mod 37 works better and the Rem 870 is not far behind!

[Bill Zachow]

This thread reminds me of a time over 40 years ago when I was in a gun shop in Syracuse that had an 1897 "brush" model Winchester. A "brush" came with a 26" barrel with cylinder choke. The gun was in pretty nice shape, considering it was over 70 years old at the time, except, the barrel assembly was loose. The dealer wanted $100 for the gun. I told him I could only pay $50, because the big wiggle in the gun. We settled at $60. After completing the purchase transaction, I asked him for a small screw driver. In about a minute, I had the forend off and the barrel lock screw and notch out. Turned the ring, put the notch and screw back in, and the gun was as tight as a drum. The dealer looked amazed and said, "you must be a gunsmith". I laughed as I went out the door. Still have the gun and it is deadly on partridges when I see one. O, also there were no background checks. Gave the guy the $60 and walked down the street carrying the gun. Today, probably be stopped/arrested by the cops.

[Bill Murphy]

My 97 Brush is the most useful 97 I own. I have a Cody letter proving it as an original Brush. They seem to be pretty scarce, even more so in high condition.

[Steve Huffman]

I like them also along with the two barrel set

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

Russ: I can't help with your question but did look at a Model 12 stainless 20 Ga. That was made I believe in 1927 and found it to be needing some restoration at the last Gun Show. Thomas

[Steve McCarty]

My 20 gauge Model 12 has one of these on the end.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/GermVMA211/004-1.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/GermVMA211/media/004-1.jpg.html)

The 20 is on the bottom. The 16 with the replacement magazine tube is in the middle, the gun on top is a 1923 Nickle Steel gun.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/GermVMA211/001-1.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/GermVMA211/media/001-1.jpg.html)

[Eric Grims]

If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.

[Eric Grims]

Check this out: nickel steel with factory solid ribs on both barrels with proof marks rolled to the side.
http://www.gunauction.com/buy/12709862/guns-for-sale-curios-relics/shotgun-curios-relics/winchester-with-2-solid-rib-bbls.30in-full-26in-cyl.mfd-1951

[Bill Murphy]

Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.

[Steve McCarty]

Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.

That's right! I have all three choke inserts, called close, mid and long range. The shot has to make a jump of about an inch from the muzzle to the choking tube. I sometimes wonder if the shot cup might turn a bit and bind in the throat of the cage. Hasn't happened yet.

I wish it was easy to find replacement Winchester barrels for model 12's and 97's. Used to be so, but no longer and Hastings, as far as I can tell, is only making rifled barrels.

[Steve McCarty]

If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.

After I've had my morning coffee tomorrow I'll sit down with the gun and tackle it. I put Art Pepper on Pandora to sooth my nerves while I struggle. I've done it before and have not had to remove the stock....yet.

[Bill Murphy]

I have done it at a gun show without removing the stock. Removing the trigger mechanism and pushing the breech bolt forward and holding it in the full "up" position while you assemble the gun and get the slide into position solves all problems. Then you can reinstall the trigger mechanism. It requires two very talented hands to accomplish, or preferably, three hands.

[Bill Zachow]

The "Jack The Dog" model 12 set may be a good shooter, but no collector. Refinished with non factory checking and pad plus the mentioned add on barrel assembly takes it totally out of collector class.

[Bill Zachow]

This thread got me thinking about all my model 12s and 1897s. The first one I ever bought was a pretty well used 12 gauge that I purchased from a gun shop in Worcester, Mass. My wife and I were on my first "big" motorcycle, a Honda 750 4. We lived in Sturbridge, Mass. At the time, about 20 miles from the gun shop. We drove home with Sylvia holding the gun over her shoulder. I remember passing a State cop and he never even slowed. Try that today.

[wayne goerres]

I thought those were all full impressive motorcycles in their day.

[Bill Zachow]

They were and a friend had one with a 900 cc kit and a turbo charger. He let me take it for a spin. He told me to take it easy as it was pretty hot. Not being too smart, I went through the gears at the red line and when I dropped it into 5th, at well over 100 mph, the front end came about 4 feet off the ground. When I got everything back under control, I took it back to my friend at about 45 mph. Mine was fairly stock with only a cam and pipes, so I did not really know what to expect. Now, I do.

[Scott Gentry]

Remove trigger group, push bolt forward and up and hold in place. With small screwdriver engage the breech bolt lever lock( seesaw looking lever on side of bolt. ) this will hold bolt in place ( this normally is engaged when action slide is moved forward during disassembly) while you reassemble trigger group. Take care that the cartridge cut off is properly fitted into it's slot, don't force anything. When front end is reinstalled and action slide engauges bolt it will unlock the lever.

Good luck.

[Steve McCarty]

Sat down in my patio with my 16 gauge model 12. Had my set of gunsmithing screw drivers. Fixed it in about three minutes. I've been inside that beast enough times so that I can pretty well keep myself out of trouble. A big secret is to push the bolt down (when the gun is upsidedown) when you insert the operating rod handle. The gun goes together easily when you do it right. Do it wrong and you are pretty well screwed.

[Scott Gentry]

Glad it worked out easily, sometimes the simplest things can be the secret.
Go shoot the heck out of it.